20 Most Recent 2000 Saturn SL - Page 5 Questions & Answers

http://www.youtube.com/redirect?q=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.1aauto.com%2F1A%2F-%2FVolkswagen%2FBeetle%2F&redir_token=UJDnkBpTxaeqGuhJMPgNVOUZMs98MTQwMjUzNjI2OEAxNDAyNDQ5ODY4 The "How To" video is applicable for 1998 through and including 2005 models.

Did you ever find the source of the oil leak from under the intake?

sometimes just enter on google your problem.www.google.com

check ur brake fluid level because you might have leaky rear wheel cylinders

i expect there is a sensor /switch preventing the vehicle starting because of the fuel running out , get the OBD codes read and CLEARED by a mechanic as this should get you started if there where no running problems before

Hi Petey. Most probably you have a problem with the ignition switch on the steering wheel,or any bad earthing contact.

They are rather awkward to get to and can sit really tightly onto the spark plugs and coil at times. If you have the new ones then try pry them off gently with an old screw driver. It doesn't matter if you damage them as you are replacing them. Keep in mind that if you are changing them due to misfires, the coils on these vehicle are known to give problems, especially if they have got wet in a heavy downpour or if you hit a big puddle.

Sounds like your fuel rail is loose, you have a bad injector seat, or a leaky rail. It won't run because the fuel system is pressurized and you are losing pressure. Look for the leak and pinpoint it. That will give you a better idea and you can start there

u will need about 1/2 to do the flash ----insert key and turn to the on position [do not start] and leave in this position for ten minutes --the security light will flash and go on and off during this ignition flash ---then turn off for 10 seconds ====repeat this step 2 more times than turn key to on for a second than start vehicle ur key and ignition relearn should be complete

You need to have the trans ECU reset back into its adaptive learning mode. The new trans is shifting harder because the trans ECU still thinks the old one is in the car. The ECU learns your driving habits and compensates clutch wear to provide a smooth consistent shift. Your old trans had a lot of clutch wear so to keep the shift quality it allowed more pressure to the clutch packs. So you now have a trans with less wear on it and the shifts are hard. This is something that removing battery power wont reset. It has to be done with a diagnostic tester. Some trans controllers will begin to compensate on their own over a period of time but I don't yours is one of them. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_c087e4b7d13c0163

Just when parked? The radiator fan has probably failed and is not blowing any air.

If you're talking 4000 rpm, in neutral you'll cause engine damage! 2000 RPM is the max safe limit. Power loss is usually due to a restricted fuel filter. Does it smoke when running? (air filter), Try some Isopropyl alcohol deicer or fuel injector cleaner to ensure there's no water in the system. you haven't given enough info to diagnose the problem, i.e. drivability, history, and symtoms. BobB

check the fuse box cover under the left side of the dashboard instrument panel. The fuses should be shown on the cover. Or pull and examine them one at a time (15 amp first) until you find the melted filament....BobB

It looks like the parking lamp fuse is in the box in the engine compartment marked PARK and the dash light fuse is in the box on the driver side of the dash marked DIMMER. They are two different circuits.

There's another fuse location (on my 99 SL1 anyway) under the right front panel of the center console in the passenger compartment. Check fuses with a test light (cheap and easy to use).