Top 10 1999 Saturn SL Questions & Answers

Solution #2 by dr4saturns was on the money. The bundle of wires was easy to get to and u can see where the wires connect (w/ flashlight). I wiggled the wires and .. Bam! Car started right up. I've been searching the internet (a lot!) and have seen many people with this same problem .. good battery, starter is good, dash lights work, headlights work but no dim when trying to start. No dome lights, no radio, no door chime, no door locks. Now I just need to find a fuse box but i'm not sure it's within my scope to replace, seems a bit complicated for a shadetree mechanic. Thanks dr4saturns!

Everyone automatically assumes that oil and water mixing means a blown head gasket or cracked engine block. Of course common sense is usually not that common. Oil in coolant is a different problem than coolant in oil. The former is a low pressure leak, and could indicate only an intake manifold gasket. It could also be an early or small head gasket leak. Coolant in oil is usually a cracked block or torn head gasket, and has concomitant symptoms of white exhaust smoke and milky oil on dipstick. If you replace the head gasket and the problem persists, an intake gasket could have fixed the problem.

Hopes this help, found answer on Saturnalia
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135171
If your mechanic has a schematic or looks in the owners manual and checks the loads listed for the IP BAT fuse in the UHJB and they are all dead then its the F-5 connection. The fuel pump is a direct feed from the IP BAT to F-5 to the fuel pump relay. the fuel pump fuse is on the other side of the fuel pump relay.

It covers exactly what I am trying to tell you. Check the IP BAT loads, if all dead, fix F-5 and if the internal wire is burned open replace the I/P panel.

File in Section: 08 - Body and Accessories

Bulletin No.: 03-08-45-001

Issue Date: May, 2003
Subject:
Intermittent No Start, Intermittent Stall after Start-Up and/or Loss of Radio Presets (Replace Instrument Panel Junction Block - IPJB and/or Terminal)

Models Affected:
1995-1999 Saturn S-Series Vehicles

Attention: Technician

Condition:

Some customers may comment that one or more of the following conditions has occurred.
^ Intermittent no start

^ Intermittent stall after start-up

^ Loss of radio presets

Cause:

Condition(s) may be caused by terminal tightness at PIN F-5 within the Instrument Panel Junction Block (IPJB Black 68 way).

Correction:

Refer to the Instrument Panel Junction Block (IPJB) and/or Terminal Replacement procedures in this bulletin.

Procedure:

Instrument Panel Junction Block (IPJB) Removal:
1. Disconnect negative battery cable.

2. Disconnect positive battery cable.

3. Remove left and right lower trim panel extensions by pulling outward at dual lock locations. Rotate panels outward to disengage hinges from console.


4. Remove screw and ground wire from H-bracket.

5. Remove wiring harness from H-bracket.

6. Remove screw and disconnect rear electrical connector from IPJB. Remove IPJB screw.


7. Using a small screwdriver, release lock tabs on IPJB and slide off of mounting tabs.


8. Feed IPJB through H-bracket towards front of car.

9. Inspect PIN F-5, circuit 402 on the Black 68-way connector of the instrument panel junction block for signs of arcing. If signs of arcing are present, replace IPJB and terminal. Refer to the IPJB Installation and Terminal Replacement procedures in this bulletin.

10. If no signs of arcing, verify terminal tightness using GRAY probe. Replace terminal using the Terminal Replacement procedure in this bulletin.

IPJB Installation:
1. Feed IPJB back through H-bracket.

2. Slide the IPJB into mounting tabs and lock into place.

3. Install rear Black 68-way electrical connector into IPJB and then install screws in connector into IPJB.

4. Reconnect wiring harness to the H-bracket.

5. Reconnect ground wire to the H-bracket.

6. Reinstall left and right lower trim panel extensions.

7. Reconnect positive battery cable.

8. Reconnect negative battery cable.

Terminal Replacement:
1. If terminal replacement is required, remove CPA from Black 68-way connector. Insert tool 12094430/J04898 to remove terminal.

2. Put connector seal (if equipped) on wire.

3. Remove insulation from the end of the cut lead and the harness. Recommended strip length is 9.5 mm (3/8 in.) Caution must be used to prevent cutting the wire strands.

4. Position stripped ends in sleeve until wires hit the stop in the center of the splice.

5. Hand crimp using the approved crimping tool. Gently tug on wires to make sure they are secure before applying heat to them.

Important O NOT USE MATCH OR OPEN FLAME TO APPLY HEAT TO SEAL.


6. Apply heat using the Heat Gun or some other device, heating to 175°C (347°F) until glue flows around edges of sleeve.

7. Insert the terminal into the connector. Check to make sure the terminal lock tab is engaged by gently tugging on the wire.

8. Replace any terminal position assurance (TPA) devices.
COMPLEMENTS OF: OldNucSuper Member
Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Far Southwestern Iowa Posts: 17,413
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1998 SC2

Absolutely a bad o2 sensor can cause problems with performance. If you replace one it is highly recommended to replace both or all four depending on your vehicle. If one o2 sensor is making your vehicle run rich you will burn more fuel and in return increase the amount of carbon or unburnt fuel if you will in your egr valve you could probably get away with cleaning it but I would recommend replacing it, it will save you from having to pull it off again. Check your catyletic converter because long exposure to carbon will mess it up.

I would suspect the starter solenoid or the starter. I may be telling you something you already know, so if I am, bear with me. When you turn the ignition key to start the car, you apply 12 volt to the starter solenoid (which is physically located on the starter). The solenoid is actually a relay that applies 12 volts( at very high current) to the starter. Since you are not hearing any clicking when you turn the key, I suspect the solenoid. BTW, when you get a starter it usually comes with a solenoid already atteched.

Hope this helps Good luck Loringh

View the video on You Tube by Richpin06a. It was very helpful. I don't do many repairs on cars, but with the help of this video, I replaced the waterpump on my Saturn last weekend. It was easy, and I didn't have to remove the engine.

EGR flow is monitored by the PCM by it looking for a reaction in the FRONT O2 sensor in responce to the command given to the EGR valve. The linear electronic EGR valve sends a return signal to the PCM indicating the relative position of the step motor and hence how far open (or closed) the EGR valve is in responce to the PCM command. The PCM expects to see (within a set of given parameters) a change in the O2 sensor reading (change in exhaust gas make up) after the EGR valve is commanded open or closed. If it doesn't, or that change is not within the expected parameters, a code will be set based on the skewed data. Generally a "insufficient flow" code will be set by:

1.Faulty EGR valve (sticking, or "lying" to the PCM about the actual valve position)
2.Faulty electrical connection at the EGR valve (causing false data)
3.Clogged EGR passages
4. Bad read from the MAP, or TPS, causing the PCM to misinterpret the EGR data based on faulty operational data from the other sensors
5. (Very rarely) A marginally "slow" O2 sensor. (PCM does not "see" the change in exhaust make up quick enough and interprets that as poor EGR flow.) I have found that normally this code means that the EGR is not opening the amount that it has been commaneded to by the PCM. Normal cure for me lately has beed to repalce the EGR valve and to clean out the passages while the valve is off. The Tech 2 is able to command the EGR open and show the commanded opening and the actual opening. When this code is present the actual and commanded do not match closely at all. Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for taking the time to answer your FREE question.

well there are 2 coolant sensors,,,one is the coolant level sensor which is internal to the coolant resivor,,but i think you are talking about the infamous engine coolant temp sensor,,,,ok pop your hood you will see the cam cover that says saturn on it,,,,thats the top of the engine,,,ok,,,then on the lower right side of that you will see the upper radiator hose,,,and the EGR valve,,,,now inbetween the egr valve and upper rad hose is where the coolant temp sensor is,, its just below them,,there is a little wiring harness with a yellow and a black wire going to it,,,,it actually screws into the lower side of the cylinder head,,,,just squeze the wiring connector at the 2 thicker spots and pull it straight off then take the coolant cap off the resivor,,to relases pressure and put it back on,providing the car is not hot,,,,the sensor is actually a 13mm or 14mm socket that removes the sensor,,,,,they usually crack and leak into the harness so check the harness for corrosion,,,,be like green/blue on terminals,,if so youre gonna have to wire in a new connector,,,,no big deal ,, normal s-series issue,,,do not use aftermarket junk like autozone as these do not read correctly from the start youre gonna have to shell out the money at the saturn dealer for the good stuff ,,like $18 for the sensoe and $37 for the connector but it comes with the 2 **** connectors you need to wire it in,,,so if you remove the sensor just put the new one in snug but dont break it off,,,,top off coolant,,,,cut the 2 wires off the old connector as close to the end as possilbe. so you retain as much wire as you can,,,,,it doesnt matter which wire goes on what side but i lke to keep it the way it was the black wire on the right and the yellow on the left,,use the **** connectors,then heat shrink them and wrap them with electrical tape and youre done

The Idle Air Control valve is located on the throttle body. If you follow the intake tube from your air filter all the way back to the intake manifold, where the intake tube connects to is the throttle body. Remove the intake tubing and you can see the throttle body.

There are two sensors on the throttle body and a vacuum line. You'll see two harnesses going to the throttle body, one is the IAC.

However, a quick diagnostic check can be done without touching the throttle body to confirm your problem. If the car has a normal idle when initially started but then rises to a higher idle and stays there BUT then if you were to shut the car off and restart it and it comes back to normal that is the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). This is also located on the throttle body (the other sensor to the IAC). If it is the IAC it will be high and maybe fluctuate a bit.

Hi, You have three fuse panels/boxes on your Saturn. One uner the hood (drivers side) One each in the front kick panels the identification is located on the inside of the cover. The lighter fuse is located in the underhood fuse block. It is a yellow 20 amp fuse lay the cover next to the fuse's then you can identify where its located in the panel Hope this helps