20 Most Recent 1999 Saturn SL - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Bad automatic trans shifter solenoid, located under the console between the seats.....quick fix while waiting for a new solenoid is simply unhook the lever from the automatic trans solenoid.

My personal preferrence would be to swap or get another car. This particular car in my opinion doesn't hold the value of cost to rebuild the engine. Just my opinion.

no. glued on.

Hello,Okay--I am thinking about several things here. Electrical fire; engine failure; coolant system leak. Visual inspection--look at the wires on the engine, do they appear melted or are any of the wire casings soft? Check the fluids for the engine (e.g.-oil coolant) if you have water in your oil or coolant is black you could have blown a head gasket. There are some hoses on the firewall side that go into the block or intake manifold, check them for tears, cracks, etc. After you have diagnosed the problem a little more--re-post.

Could be a bad tire. The belts sometimes separate but you unusually feel it in the wheel. Could be somthing stuck in the tread.

2001 Saturn SL1. Transmission (automatic) shifts hard when putting it in gear and every gear there after. The only codes I get is PO442 and PO410. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

do them both-cheers Denny

Check the starter relay and the starter.

Check the fluid level in your power steering pump reservoir. The cap on the reservoir also has a dipstick attached so you can easily read the level. If the reservoir is full, have the rack and pinion checked.

Try crank position sensor, it's common for those to stop working when they heat up

Saturn i think this is the same car or the same engine and software type as our opel vectra /zafiro range and if so then these cars from this age are notorious for dodgy ECUs ,the faults are varied but basicly the same but this one is only the idle and no fault lights on so i would suspect a FAULTY STEEPER MOTOR so renew this first and see what happens if that doesnt work then consult a local mechanic with saturn experiance

need to read diagnostic trouble codes could b tps or iac

check fuse if good replace switch

ANY Dash Light you get, that comes on or stays on afterthe motor is running is a possible problem & a possiblefault code should be checked forI'm at a loss with this site & the questions, because we have had these codes & vehicle systems for well over 30 years, yet no one knows the vehicle is in trouble & you have to check for codesYou need to run to a repair shop within a day, every time anydash light or check engine light comes on,not ask questionsor continue to use the carAny codes you get can be googled, to find the system that setthe fault light

did u put them on backwards?

check egr valve may be open

probably either the crank sensor (likely, just above the starter on the side of the engine by the firewall, or the fuel pump, in the gas tank-I'd bet on the crank sensor, though, because of where it is, it acts like a heat sink and as it gets old, the resistance in it gets very high with heat causing the engine to not start when it gets hot.

Hopes this help, found answer on Saturnalia
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135171
If your mechanic has a schematic or looks in the owners manual and checks the loads listed for the IP BAT fuse in the UHJB and they are all dead then its the F-5 connection. The fuel pump is a direct feed from the IP BAT to F-5 to the fuel pump relay. the fuel pump fuse is on the other side of the fuel pump relay.

It covers exactly what I am trying to tell you. Check the IP BAT loads, if all dead, fix F-5 and if the internal wire is burned open replace the I/P panel.

File in Section: 08 - Body and Accessories

Bulletin No.: 03-08-45-001

Issue Date: May, 2003
Subject:
Intermittent No Start, Intermittent Stall after Start-Up and/or Loss of Radio Presets (Replace Instrument Panel Junction Block - IPJB and/or Terminal)

Models Affected:
1995-1999 Saturn S-Series Vehicles

Attention: Technician

Condition:

Some customers may comment that one or more of the following conditions has occurred.
^ Intermittent no start

^ Intermittent stall after start-up

^ Loss of radio presets

Cause:

Condition(s) may be caused by terminal tightness at PIN F-5 within the Instrument Panel Junction Block (IPJB Black 68 way).

Correction:

Refer to the Instrument Panel Junction Block (IPJB) and/or Terminal Replacement procedures in this bulletin.

Procedure:

Instrument Panel Junction Block (IPJB) Removal:
1. Disconnect negative battery cable.

2. Disconnect positive battery cable.

3. Remove left and right lower trim panel extensions by pulling outward at dual lock locations. Rotate panels outward to disengage hinges from console.


4. Remove screw and ground wire from H-bracket.

5. Remove wiring harness from H-bracket.

6. Remove screw and disconnect rear electrical connector from IPJB. Remove IPJB screw.


7. Using a small screwdriver, release lock tabs on IPJB and slide off of mounting tabs.


8. Feed IPJB through H-bracket towards front of car.

9. Inspect PIN F-5, circuit 402 on the Black 68-way connector of the instrument panel junction block for signs of arcing. If signs of arcing are present, replace IPJB and terminal. Refer to the IPJB Installation and Terminal Replacement procedures in this bulletin.

10. If no signs of arcing, verify terminal tightness using GRAY probe. Replace terminal using the Terminal Replacement procedure in this bulletin.

IPJB Installation:
1. Feed IPJB back through H-bracket.

2. Slide the IPJB into mounting tabs and lock into place.

3. Install rear Black 68-way electrical connector into IPJB and then install screws in connector into IPJB.

4. Reconnect wiring harness to the H-bracket.

5. Reconnect ground wire to the H-bracket.

6. Reinstall left and right lower trim panel extensions.

7. Reconnect positive battery cable.

8. Reconnect negative battery cable.

Terminal Replacement:
1. If terminal replacement is required, remove CPA from Black 68-way connector. Insert tool 12094430/J04898 to remove terminal.

2. Put connector seal (if equipped) on wire.

3. Remove insulation from the end of the cut lead and the harness. Recommended strip length is 9.5 mm (3/8 in.) Caution must be used to prevent cutting the wire strands.

4. Position stripped ends in sleeve until wires hit the stop in the center of the splice.

5. Hand crimp using the approved crimping tool. Gently tug on wires to make sure they are secure before applying heat to them.

Important O NOT USE MATCH OR OPEN FLAME TO APPLY HEAT TO SEAL.


6. Apply heat using the Heat Gun or some other device, heating to 175°C (347°F) until glue flows around edges of sleeve.

7. Insert the terminal into the connector. Check to make sure the terminal lock tab is engaged by gently tugging on the wire.

8. Replace any terminal position assurance (TPA) devices.
COMPLEMENTS OF: OldNucSuper Member
Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Far Southwestern Iowa Posts: 17,413
OldNuc's Photos
1998 SC2