Did you replace the bulb in the passenger side running light/turn signal socket? There are two filaments in that bulb, one for the running light (which you indicate works) and one for the turn signal. If that bulb (filament) is burned out, it will make the turn signal flash faster. I don't know why you were swapping headlights, don't know where the fire box under the hood is, and don't know what a jumper sore is, so can't help you any further. I have a Saturn Ion, and have never found a fire box or jumper sore in it.
First off ,no start how ? crank - no - start - when you turn the key to the start position the engine cranks -starter engages an spins engine but won't start an run or you have a no - crank - no - start . engine does not spin . which of these is your engine doing ?
dont know, but im having the same problem. my pass. side front wont work, and the driver rear wont work. its a 2005 ion 2 i suspect its the motors in both of them. i will let you know in a day or two, as soon as i check the parts yard to get a couple.
It sounds like you have clutch issue if it's a manual stick shift or if it's an automatic it could be associated with your transmission..... I'd definitely recommend it being looked at my a mechanic asap
Yes and no, I suggest getting a hold of a local audio installation shop and see if they can help you. To install an aftermarket remote start system you have to bypass the anti theft system.
Your vehicle is fitted with an electronic ignition key lock.
they are in place to prevent you from removing the key when the vehicle is still in gear/not in park or park brake not applied, some foot not on brake ect.
They are activated by a small electric solenoid on the back of the ignition barrel.
You could have a faulty ignition barrel, solenoid or ECU signal lost or parameters are not being met,eg. vehicle still in gear.
watch the below video on how to remove and clean the barrel may help, or at least you can further diagnose from that point.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1aPknAvXmU
If the key comes out in any position besides lock, the lock not the switch needs replaced. Most commonly caused by years of heavy keychains. They pretty easy to change out and not to expensive, typically under 20. Sounds like the little springs are worn. This will fix problem of being able to remove key in acc position. And in lock position should prevent a battery drain. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/paul_0efc97cca45309c1
The motor an EPS - electric power steering module have to be replaced together . The module needs to be programmed , Dealer ! Could be a steering angle sensor also . Could have DTC'S - diagnostic trouble code's stored .
The electric power steering (EPS) system reduces the amount of effort needed to steer the vehicle. The system uses the body control module (BCM), power steering control module (PSCM), torque sensor, discrete battery voltage supply circuit, EPS motor, serial data bus, and the instrument panel cluster (IPC) message center to perform the system functions. The PSCM, torque sensor, not the EPS motor are serviced separately from each other or from the steering column. Any EPS components diagnosed to be malfunctioning requires replacement of the steering column assembly, also known as the EPS assembly.
Can set a number of code's
DTC C0000
DTC C0475
DTC C0476
DTC C0545
DTC C0847
DTC C0848
DTC C0896
DTC C0899
DTC C0900
Your best bet , let a qualified repair shop that has the diagnostic skill's to find the problem !
since the problem was seen shortly after you installed the radio; I would disconnect the power to the radio first. it usually has an inline fuse that you can just disconnect. then check to see if your symptoms went away. if so. the wiring is wrong for the radio.
changing plugs is not the answer
adding quality injector cleaner to the fuel is a far better option as misfires are from problem injectors / low fuel pressures and pump problems
have the fault codes read to get a close answer to the problem