20 Most Recent 2005 Jeep Wrangler - Page 6 Questions & Answers

I had the same problem with the vents & it turned out that one of the vacuum hoses going to the dashboard control switches had a split in it. Once repaired, problem solved.

try unlocking and relocking the driverside door with the key then unlock the door with the remote this should reset the alarm.

The vehicle until warm runs off a different set of parameters for the computer as far as timing and fuel are concerned. Temp is not a problem at 200... and it is normal for the oil pressure to lower once warm. ( as long as you have 10 psi oil pressure for every 1,000 rpm's you are ok.)

The two codes cam/crank sensor are timing related related. So I would suspect something that deals with both sensors,Timing chain maybe?This particular engine has a problem with chewing up timing chains. If you find this to be the problem i recommend using factory GM replacement parts. I have had to re-do several that i tried to use aftermarket parts on. The only other thing that comes to mind , dealing with the drive ability, is the fuel pressure. These vehicles are sensitive in the fuel pressure area, but this should not make the light on the dash come on. You may have more than one issue. The other part of the vehicle that deals with timing is the ECM. If you have access to a scan tool with data stream on it , you can look and see if the ECM is receiving a signal.

Hello schuetzbrn

I would strongly suggest that the next time this happens to you, go to Autozone and ask them to scan your Jeep for the code. this will be your best bet at knowing what it is and what to do next. Go from there. it shouldn't be a major problem if the engine light doesn't stay on.

-hopeufixit-

Sounds like your heater/bower motor has an issue. Behind the glove box door is your heater motor, and mounted to it is a heater motor resistor. It will have a wire harness plugged into it. These go bad, and you will loose low speeds.

yes i could be but what i dont undersatnd is chyrsler jeep fuel pumps are not servicable the whole assembly has to be changed anyway lik on ford you can just change pump but you cannot on your car you must replace all as they dont even make just a pump it the pump strainer float all in one and runs usally about 250.00 bucks just for assembly make sure when you change it again that you also change fuel filters strainer and fuel pressure regulator

if it helps please leave me 4 thumbs up

I ,ve been in the business for many years and have run into this problem several times including on my own vehicle. It is commonly called "death wobble". Unfortunately, I haven't found a common single component cure, rather, it seems to be any combination of minor wear in several components, each of which the wear would be insufficient to replace. Carefully check your ball joints, all suspension bushings, shocks, all joint ends, and steering dampner. for wear or looseness. Replace the most worn first. Also if caster adjustment is possible, have a shop add a degree or two of positive caster, regardless of current readings or factory specs. (helps stabilize the wheels at speed) Alwaqys check the front end components with wheels off the ground or even a worn part can appear good. Also do an on-ground check by having someone turn the wheels back and forth slightly and check for side play (do not forget to make sure steering box is bolted securely to the frame and that the frame is intact.) Sounds like a lot, but it shouldn't take long to check out.

the lock ring for the shifter fork inside the transmission gearbox may be worn out. jeep transmission dont last long especially if a lift kit or bigger tires are installed.

Yeah it can be cause of road conditions weather conditions and most oe balljoints don't have grease fittings. Its not uncommon. A ball joint is probably the most abused and overlooked part of a suspension.

The problem you have is called "Death Wobble" and is well known in the Jeeping community. It is almost always caused by a loose track bar, either at the axle end or frame end. First check the tightness of the bolts at both ends. Any play in the track bar will cause death wobble. A certain cure is a new track bar with the fasteners torqued to the correct specs. Most of the time though, just tightening the bolts at the frame and axle ends will cure the "shakes". The grey bar in the picture is the track bar.

Lets try to verify were the sound is comming from. Injectors usually don't "TIC" they spray. But the best way to determine where the sound is comming from is to use a stethoscope. (sold in Auto zone), place it on the the noisy tin and listen.
What you describing sounds more like valves.

Faulty sending unit. The float has a hole in it or unit itself has broken.

check for a bad bulb. this is how the system alerts you to a non-working light bulb.

If the oxygen sensors on the vehicle are faulty then that could easily cause the poor fuel economy. Replace both of the O2 sensors and clear the code with a scan tool. You should start getting better fuel economy. I hope this was helpful.

Hi, check the wiring on the sensors for contact with the hot exhaust. The wire may have melted insulation (you may not need a sensor but just a wiring repair). The sensor is screwed into the exhaust pipe behind the catalytic converter. There is one on each pipe. Code 58 is bank 2, which I think is on the passenger side. The O2 sensor may possibly cause the other codes too, but I have a post on misfires you can browse.

Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6715318-causes_gasoline_engine_misfires . These are generic instructions. If you get stuck or need specific instructions for your car, please get back to me with model, year and engine info.

If the code 300 is not being caused by the sensor, then a tuneup may not resolve the issue. For example, a code 300 can be caused by the crank sensor, and that is not part of a tuneup. So $350 later you may still need more work.