1991 Honda Accord - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I have the same problem with mine. The antenna should go down when you turn the key to the off position. When it stays up or only goes down a little, you can actually push it down with your hand. It will not hurt it. Just make sure you push it straight down as not to bend or fold it over. It is just wearing out and needs to be replaced.

check and examine the wheel bearings / hub -c/v axle and or for debris

Thanks a bunch for sharing this with all folks you sincerely understand what you're talking about. that is for all and sundry, I made this torque spec thread when you consider that I and lots of others here always ask approximately torque specs. discover myself searching trough all my Haynes and Chilton books for torque specs even as I understand i will make a list like this one to make it less complicated. Expert Custom Essay Services

Your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop.

Hi Kristi You need a mechanic to look at this for you. What you are describing is a possible Head gasket fault, if the engine is running erratic and now will not start the spark plugs could be wet. If this is the case if you try to start it or run the engine it could cause a lot more damage. Signs for head gasket :- rapid engine temperature rise, boiling of coolant, erratic idle to the point of no start, coolant loss excess water from exhaust probable white smoke from exhaust when engine is running. Water leaking either external to head gasket, water leaking internal of engine i.e. into bores. Water leaking into engine oil. This can be seen via dipstick will show raised oil level and possibly a creamy texture. can be confirmed by excessive creamy substance in oil filler cap and rocker cover. Now on saying this it could be something more simple like an under active cooling fan. This is why I advise someone to look at it before you start spending money on things it might not be. Good luck

For dashboard mount:
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Carefully pull the clock bezel from the dash.
Remove the screws securing the clock to the dash.
Pull the clock out slightly and unplug the electrical connector.
Installation is reverse of removal.

For console mount:
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the rear console.
Remove the screws securing the front console cover and pull the assembly out slightly.
Unplug the electrical connectors on the back of the panel.
Remove the screws securing the clock (they come in from the back of the panel), then remove it from the panel.
Installation is reverse of removal.

Hope this helps you.

Perhaps try a fuel pressure tester to see if it's holding steady pressure when this occurs. This sounds like the symptoms of a failing pump however, don't just change the pump. Confirm it by monitoring the pressure. I've seen some guys tape the pressure gauge to the windshield so they can see it.

I'm voting for blown head gasket. An auto shop (maybe a parts store?) has a test strip that will show up combustion gases in the radiator. You might be able to do a sniff test and detect an exhaust gas smell.

If you have already checked fuses and bulbs, you can do the following: If you have a multimeter, set it to DC voltage 20 and remove the light bulb. Have someone else press the brake pedal and touch your leads from the multimeter to the contacts (one lead on one, the other on the opposite terminal) and see if you're getting 12-14 volts DC. If you are getting the proper voltage, then the bulb should be replaced with a known working bulb. If you are getting no power when the brake pedal is depressed, you have a break in the wire somewhere and will need to track it down. Sometimes, there is a separate fuse for the 3rd brake light - have you checked for that fuse? It's possible the wire leading to the 3rd brake light has been cut or otherwise damaged - possibly from overloading the trunk and items physically damaging the wire. Another possibility is a faulty ground for that light assembly. Try to locate a service manual for the car and track down where the ground wire should be and make sure you have a solid connection. If all else fails, take your car to a qualified technician for a closer look.

Check fuel pump fuse and all other fuses, check brake switch, Also, a worn ignition switch will cause the car to start sometimes but not always. Try turning the switch to on position, then jiggle the key around in the switch while pushing in a bit...now start the car...did it start? If yes, replace switch and/or key cylinder....

CHECK AIR PRESSURE ALL TIRES

Get the codes for that check engine light read by any autoparts store and let us know what it says.

simple test start the engine and apply the hand brake place in drive if it idles ok , put your foot on the brake if it plays up , replace the brake booster as there is a vacuum leak that is up setting the air mixture in any event before taking what others guess , always have the fault codes read as that will point in the right direction

this may help you out if you have other sysmtoms. : rebuild it on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-HONDA-ACCORD-TCU-TCM-REPAIR-SERVICE-Lifetime-Warranty-FAST-/282390748050?rd=1

Never mind the text, I was trying to get the picture, three or four bolts. I'd have to look at it to be sure. The picture appears to show three bolts?

Have you checked for fuel delivery issues since car dies while driving? Is the fuel pump operating correctly?And how about the carb? - if the float gets stuck while up there will be an interruption of gas to engine. No gassy, no goey!

Could be a CV joint. Or, a FRONT wheel bearing. Have your mechanic check. I have had wheel bearings go bad but the shop was unable to confirm until the damned thing literally fell apart. I told them MANY times I had a bad wheel bearing. They often don't perform a detailed inspection. Have you looked for twigs caught in the frame? It happens.

if S button flashes and at the same time the speedometer is not functionning correctly, then the speedometer sensor is malfunction. The sensor is located at the transmission body above driveshaft.

If you turn the key off and it wont shut off the heater then there are some interesting things you need to check. The first would be the whole ignition switch. When you shut off the key, the power should stop to that accessory. If that is okay then you need to check the controls for the heater. The issue with no heat is one of a blend door being stuck and this could be the controls again.

Has a wireing problem ,best to see an auto electrical shop.