2001 Chrysler Voyager - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Its a big job gave you and example for neon

a professional job will cost $850-$ 900 and that entails new belt . cam shaft seals, crankshaft seals , new idlers , new hydraulic belt tensioner cheaper jobs will miss seals and idler pulleys and as a result the new belt life will be halved

Maybe the cluster but try checking fuses first. My Aerostar does this when one particular fuse goes out. Also, make sure NOTHING so much as comes near the back of instrument cluster. Even a little scrap of paper touching changes the electrical values fed back.

Have the diesel fuel pump replaced

what i did was use some printer ink "yellow" and put it in my radiator. its water soluble and then ran it for a day and i found the leak at the water pump bearing im not shure where yours might be but this will help you locate it. hope this helps. take care.

You have two of them. One is located under the dashboard on the left side of the steering colume the other one is located up under the hood on the drivers side next to the firewall.

Do you know what a fuel pump relay is ? You can check B+ Voltage an control at the relay > Find the relay in the under hood fuse box . Pull the relay out an look on the bottom , you should see four sets of numbers 30,87 an 85,86 ! 30 an 87 are the power side ! One of these will or should have B+ voltage , the other goes to the fuel pump . You could take a piece of wire an jump 30 an 87 , in the fuse box where the relay plug's into . The fuel pump should run ! The control side 85 an 86 , one will have B+ voltage an the other will be open circuit , unless you crank the engine ! The PCM supplies a ground when an input from the crank sensor is sensed. Videos on youtube on trouble shooting an testing fuel pump electrical circuits .

Internal failure, probably the head isn't able to read the disc

I need to know where the p1491 radiator relay control circuit is ?

Which one. There is one for the engine management system and one for the radiator fans.

There are two types of engines in this regard--interference and non-interference. Many newer engines are now interference types to increase performance, but this means that the pistons can hit the valves causing major damage when the timing belt breaks. Non-interference engines will suffer no real damage when belt breaks, so you need to get the engine type from under the hood on a data plate and google search your exact engine. Good luck.

sounds as though a earth cable may have got mixed with a power cable , take back to who done the gearbox

Most likely on 2000 and newer vehicles specially if the van is still driveable it's the sensors. Get them replaced and if not working then it can be mechanical.

The fuse box is on the drivers side in a black box near the hood release . There are 2 flat head screws to loosen and the cover pulls down and all the fuses are there and labled if not look for one with a broken fiament inside and thats the one thats bad there are also some under the hood also in a black box

There is relay for the blower motor in the front control module also ! ! It could also be the blower motor resistor ! Do you know how to use a volt meter ? Check for battery voltage at the dark blue wire at the blower motor , if you have voltage there the relay is good ,test it with the blower switch on ! if you have power there it is the blower resistor or bad ground ! One more question ,is yours auto temp. control ? That adds a little more complexity to it !

INNER DOOR PANEL OFF, 4? SCREWS, UNCLIP WINDOW GLASS,AND REMOVE FROM DOOR. MIGHT HAVE TO REMOVE SOME WINDOW TRIM MOULDING. UNPLUG MOTOR. 4 BOLTS, REMOVE REGULATOR AND TRACK, THEN REINSTALL EVERYTHING

THAT IS RADIATOR FAN CONTROL RELAY

CLOCKSPRING

CLOCK SPRING!! IF ALSO NO HORN, THAT IS INDICATOR

BLEW MAIN ENGINE SEAL