20 Most Recent 1992 Jeep Wrangler Questions & Answers

The two lines are pick-up & return. If the two pipes are different thicknesses, then probably one pipe will be a good fit on only of the tank outlets.? Also, when you put the old pipes up to the tank connectors they may be formed into a shape which will give you a strong clue as to which way round they fitted.? Failing that, put something (like a golf tee) lightly into the ends of the two fuel pipes Then, go to the fuel-filter near the engine & take the fuel-tank side connector off. Blow down the pipe & whichever golf tee has blown out of the pipe, is your fuel pick-up & the other one will be your return pipe. Don't forget to re-connect your pipe at the fuel filter. Best of luck.

Sounds like your synchronizors are shot. Try double pumping the clutch. May be time for a rebuild.

you can take help from the service and repair manual which will help you to fix the problem with diagram by your own and you will get the manual from the given link http://toolsnyou.com/

I would need to inspect the problem to even have a guess as to what you did wrong or if the part is incorrect for the application.

a good start, (no pun) spark renewed parts good. always good. a full tune up.. for real. (spark) that distrib device is called a CMP, cam sensor! the flywheel has CKP sensors. to... but the reason you cant find this is you lacking a scan tool. the PCM can cuts spark for many reasons. the ASD relays does that. by command of the PCM The PCM drops the relay for 1 to 8 reasons. minus 1 , your car has no IMMO SKIM key. but here is how to diagnose all JEEPS, (not fake MK jeeps) first is to understand the ASD relay. http://jeepdied.com/ASD.html to do the tests takes 2 persons, unless you are a Xmen. guy. the JEEP LAW OF 2 SECONDS must not be ignored, 2 full seconds. rule. this rule applies to spark and fuel, 1:fuses good. test them. (key on CEL glows, check engine lamp must glow or PCM has no power) does yours? 2: man 1, cranks. (car can crank with DEAD PCM) yup. 3: man 2 , (or WOman) tests spark using a test spark plug at say #1 front, (easy bend over) lazy we are. use a real spark plug. ok>? new. or not shorted., you ground the shell (this is a 100 year old test, not magic and is done by every mech, alive.) google how to test spark and not get electrocuted, (got a pace maker?, keep hands in pockets) 4: the key on ASD closes and engine cranks and spark happens for 2 seconds, or not, if the spark ends just as the ASD drops you KNOW NOW FOR A FACT THE PCM DID THAT ON PURPOSE> a hard cold fact. if there was not spark for 2 full seconds, then sparks dead. the PCM must be scanned., if you cant scan you get to shot gun all day. i have a scope , you dont but i can see if the pcm is pulsing the COIL. you cant. so get to guess that too. if the PCM is not pulsing said coil (lets pretend coil is good, i can bench test them, easy) then the PCM has BAD INPUTS> CMP or CKP tops the list. of shot guns, seems like 1000s replaced here and not one fixes it.... but goes on.. .. and on because.... best is to own a scan tool to fix any jeep 1991 to now. or go broke every time a part gives up the ghosts. the keyon 3 times tests. can find problems , but NEVER ALL problems, its blind to many. its just toy really, but has value, if if works.

Your description indicates a fuel starvation or choking problem. I assume it is a carburettor model and either there are times when the engine is getting too much fuel - or too little, probably the latter. There could be a blockage in the carb or the fuel pump might be worn or there could be a foreign object in the fuel tank sometimes blocking the flow. It is also possible your vehicle is suffering carburettor freezing. This usually takes place, not in freezing weather as would be expected but in cool, damp conditions. Vehicle manufacturers go to great lengths in combatting this with warm air collected from around the exhaust manifold and mixed with the cooler air of the normal intake, usually controlled automatically by a vacuum operated flap.

the ASD relay shuts off 3 things 1 spark 2: fuel pump 3: and kills injector power. you guessed and he guessed. so>>>> when the car cranks and not start, we scan it next or if no scan tool, you are left with the key on 3 times get codes test/ if you key on and the CEL lamp is dead that means the ECU is dead or fuse bad, cracked or rusty. when the pump goes dead, make sure the ASD energizes or its all just a waste of time back aft. the ASD closes for about 2 seconds, the pump runs too. if the ECU sees errors during the cranking for 2 seconds. the ECU drops the ASD and PUMP dead. by law. too. the anti crash and burn logic is inside the ECU/PCM the 91-92 ,we have no cheap scan tools until 1993.so.... to fix any modern car EFI it takes a scan tool or lots of labor so get in the car, crank for 5 seconds as that service manual chapter 8d tells you, then release the key, then turn off and on 3 times inside 3 seconds, and see the CEL flash out codes. (no DRB scan tool that is all you get there) if no hope still. see the 7-8 ways the ASD Can drop here. your car is older, and less ways to drop out. ALSO you said smack tank, sure. but ment , smack it, then get in car and pump runs 2 seconds key on, right,, did you consider the ground wire to the pump is bad.? did you condsider the power wire or pins bad, in cars harness and the smacking jarred thosE>? I use a voltmeter, to find all this when failed. my guess, your mech, didnt do that first? if he did, and 12vdc is across pump for 2 seconds pump is bad. if he did and 0v or low, low volts is across pump pins the its not the pump or is wire, connectors, to pump (harness et al) or ASD DID THIS ON PURPOSE> next would be measure all 4 ASD pins, see whats going no here, and pump relay pins while failed. Diagnosing, it after it self cures it self is near impossible.

Automatic or manual? Have you checked the linkage?

Shift fork actuator is stuck or malfunctioning.

Buy a new TB gasket, disconnect the throttle switch from the wiring harness, remove the throttle body from the intake manifold (3 nuts, plus the actuator rod that pops off once you release the clip. Use a small flat-bladed screwdriver to loosen the little locking tab on the end of the lower ball-and-socket. The plastic ends which have the socket & ball attachment on the link rod can break when they are removed from an old engine, have access to extras first if you remove the throttle body from the manifold. One right-hand thread, the other left-hand.) It is a good idea to remove the throttle position switch/sensor first...don't want to get any carb cleaner in that (but see the discussions below.) The gasket on my car lifted right off with no fuss, but if you have to scrape be sure to use a plastic or wood scraper so as not to damage the aluminum facing. Swab it out with clean rags and lots of good quality carb cleaner. [from a Jag owner] The engine breather is plumbed in upstream of the butterfly. The fumes from the breather are carrying oil and combustion vapors. When this stuff attempts to past the butterfly in the mostly closed state, the pressure (and hence temperature) drop causes the fumes to condense out of the air stream... sticking to the walls of the throttle housing right around the butterfly... a petroleum snow storm. As an aside, this buildup can cause really weird problems on cars with automatic IACs (idle air control: idle speed control). The gunk will restrict the air flow through the butterfly, forcing the IAC to open farther to maintain a proper idle speed. On some cars, you end up with the IAC operating well outside it's designed range... resulting in a major ring/hunt. Amazing surging. Oh, and since the butterfly is plugged, all of the air, and breather fumes, pass through the IAC. The snowstorm happens in the IAC, ruining it. Do NOT adjust the throttle stop! Clean the gunk out. 30K is about right for a XJ40. Every 15K or less on cars without a heater... BMW, Volvo.

wrong parts.! the 2 sensors share the same power feed from the ECU. 5vdc ECU power reference pin. power..... so if you plug it in and 5v goes to say 1v, then that sensor is shorted or the wrong sensor.! the VSS can very by transmission or what transfer case you have. not stated yet by you.. some VSS are hall sensors<(3 pins) and others are just a coil sensor 2pins, those can not be swapped. nor connected backwards. (halls will short) which engine.? which trans, m/t or a/t? is car 4wd, or 2wd, its different,? i can not be accurate lacking those hard facts.

the library has wiring diagrams that you can get off the shelf. or go to a radio repair shop and see if they will photo copy one for you.

i guess you dont know that only the main harness colors are standard (jeep) Jeep does no dictate sensor wires. if the sensor has pig tail wire they are not standard colors. (only pinout matters)just like the oxygen senors made by all companies. the sensors are made by many a company and the colors are not standard. only the pin plug are standard.!!! a fact. see? why not just plug it in, like it was day one.my guess, is you dont know the fact above and are worried only?or is the connector harness all hacked to H3LL. (not stated) 92 wrangler. NO ENGINE STATED, so we can really help , see? a/t or m/t trans, 4wd or 2wd? answering for rear VSS sensor on YJ (tail shaft speed is what it really is, no matter if 2wd or 4wd its rear sensor. YJ jeep it is. I have the books. chapter 8w covers all wiring. ill post the pins. now. for VSS it just plugs in, why are you worried.? pdf page 69 page YJ-12 actual free book is here 93, (same)http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service it just plugs in.....

Make sure there are no worn front end components on the vehicle. Is it equipped with large off road tires? The steering damper shock attached to the steering linkage may be worn out

its in the fsm book and at alldata.com click 93 YJ here. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service then click engine. posted 100s of times, ever search?, nah,.

10w30

won't, not want , right? the xfr case rear tail shaft is dead. the 5speed box , must be in gear, is it, did you confirm it , by checking the 5speed, shifter bottom linkage that it really is in gear, did you try all 5 gears? that be first , then see if the transfer case fails. same way. same tests. your post is a contradiction. if the input to the xfr spins, the output must too, in 2wd mode. (both) if not the xfr case has issues. or simple linkage.

i can not understand that at all. what are you asking.? the no fluid, scares me, "shock" why in the world run anything, like a gear box dry. why think it or ask it? perplexed, i am.

If you're asking whether the transmission and transfer case will work without fluid the answer is NO. If you attempt to use it without the proper fluid/lubricant you will possibly ruin both.

the wiper needs to be tighten some more, there is a nut that holds the wiper to the motor tight that nut.