20 Most Recent 1988 Ford Ranger Questions & Answers

The black reservoir/fuel tank selector unit you are referring to is the fuel tank switching valve, which is designed to switch between the two fuel tanks in your 1988 Ford Ranger XLT 4X4. This valve is responsible for directing fuel from the selected tank to the fuel pump and engine. The second fuel tank selector unit you mentioned (part number 5sv2k) is likely a replacement part for the original fuel tank selector unit. It is not intended to replace the fuel tank switching valve. The dual fuel tank system in your Ford Ranger requires both the fuel tank switching valve and the fuel tank selector unit to function properly. The fuel tank selector unit allows the driver to switch between the two fuel tanks, while the fuel tank switching valve directs fuel from the selected tank to the fuel pump and engine. If the black fuel tank switching valve is leaking or malfunctioning, it should be replaced to ensure proper operation of your dual fuel tank system.

Fixed it get a flywheel shim .0040. For the 2.9.v6 amazing it works like a brand new engine. 5 starters 3 flywheels and all it needed was a shim that is made for that engine.

Possibly clearances "closing" at operating temparature? 20w50? Kinda heavy isn't it?Spun bearing - should make more noise than a "Tap"? I've heard several low and high mileage 2.9 engines "tap" but quits after warm up? That SEEMS to be somewhat common with the2.9 Sorry can't be more specific.

check to see if automatic choke is working correctly

Check out the autozone.com website and register the truck there. It doesn't cost anything and will give you access to an online repair manual for the truck. The vacuum diagrams should be available there. Hope this helped and best wishes.

if its an ohv type the most common fault is that the oil ways to the rocker shafts become blocked
so get some flushing oil drain the oil and replace with the flushing oil and run for the time stayed on the can then Change to good quality oil and new filter
then remove the rocker covers and check and adjust the valve clearances
if its an ohc type its all hydraulic adjustment
you could try flushing as above but apart from that the only other way is to change the lifters and followers
hope this helps

Aside from the obvious checking the oil level, Some vehicles have an oil sender that plugs in near the filter. Check for any sensors in the area and make sure they are connected properly.

Here is a video that can help you https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_StgRf6f2M8

The PCV valve is under the intake on the left (drivers side) above the block. It looks like this. Its hard to give a proper diagnosis without photos of the leak. The best thing to do is to clean up the area as much as possible and run it till it leaks. Then you should be able to see where its coming from.

refill the reservoir and bleed out the air

ford ranger 1990 If you have trouble in fixing your vehicles, try this link. Very helpful

from your statement there has been no fault code reading done and it has all been guessing Has anybody thought of checking the cat converters for failure and blocking the exhaust system rich and back firing indicates injector seal leaks which will not show as an independent code but as too rich

https://s26.postimg.org/gukptsw7d/headlamps.jpgClick on the link.Usually on older vehicles, the headlamps don't use a fuse, but, fusible link, as shown in the diagram. Usually the park lamps and instrument cluster illumination are fuse protected, like the diagram shows, Not only check the fuses, use a test lite to check for voltage at fuse and at fusible link. The wires on top of switch in the diagram are voltage to headlamp switch, the wires on the bottom is voltage from head lamp switch to component.Usually one of the wires from Battery positive goes to fusible links, at the moment, I don't have location.Hope this helps, a little. I just want to add voltage and ground both are important.

Have you checked for vacuum leaks at all lines and going to the MAP sensor? It also has a TPS(throttle position sensor) and CPS(crankshaft position sensor),I think. I'm thinking vacuum leak or TPS. don-ohio

lightly all around you don't want any excess falling inside to clog the filter

unlikely the problem is in the transmission if the noise stopped when in 4th gear then that indicates main shaft and counter shaft bearing problems there is no actual 4th gear but a sliding dog that locks the input shaft to the main output shaft making te drive a complete shaft that means that there is no side load on the bearings and so the noise stops when all of the balls get to one side of the race because the cage has failed , then the gears can get out of mesh and lock up on the teeth At this point a box removal and pull down by an accredited transmission shop would be in order to get a proper diagnosis and quote I suspect that another box from a wreckers or junk yard will be the cheaper repair option

1-3-4-2 being 1 is at 1:30 or so. Mine works fine now

Starter???