1994 Ford Ranger Supercab - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

THE SERVICE MANUAL COVERS THIS FOR SURE. USA car?y/n. and endless more. for next time... the key word that those me is the word WHEEL. ... SAY DIESEL PUMP.? OR OIL PAN PUMP, FOR THE LATTER, THE SM SAYS. THERE IS NO ACTUAL TIMING, (SPARK DISTRIB, IN PLACE) BUT STEP 2 SHOWS THIS. 1994 USA BOOKS ONLY HERE. Do not force the oil pump if it does not seat readily. The oil pump driveshaft may be misaligned with the distributor or shaft assembly. If the pump is tightened down with the driveshaft misaligned, damage to the pump could occur. To align, rotate the intermediate driveshaft into a new position. BUT Argentina, HAD DIESEL ENGINE, NO COUNTRY TOLD AND IS EXPORTED CAR. PERKINS , MITSUBISHI ,AND MAZDA DIESEL USED OUTSIDE USA. AND PINTO 2.3l GAS ENGINE

(LL23) it is called then, gas.(petrol) to 1997

TOO, OMG SELF EXPLODING ENGINES. LoL. USA manual is here to read https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

Only way to check the timing belt is to remove cover, When was last time belt was replaced, timing belt should be replaced every 50,000 miles, shound like that would be next thing to check

Go to www.reliable-store.com you will get all info and solutions there definitely

Try clearing the throttle body and IAC solenoid

Check this throttle either it need cleaning or reprogramming or replacing

Possibly your clutch master cylinder has gone bad-is leaking internally and unable to hold pressure. Open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder and watch as someone stabs the clutch pedal down. fluid should spurt out in a goo0d stream.. This is not conclusive as it is still possible the master cylinder seal is bad and won't hold pressure as clutch is applied. I don't know of any way to test the master for internal leakage. but if you believe the clutch disc itself is not the problem from being worn so low it slips badly, then it could be the master cylinder.

Here's a long answer. It could be 100 things. But if your wobble is showing up at low speeds, look at the tread on the tires. Does it snake back and forth? If so you have a belt separation in the tire. If it's not a tire, you may have a suspension part that's bad. Or, more than one. Control arms, ball joints, tie rods, (inner and outer), bushings, and wheel bearings, and any one of them could be waiting to send you into the ditch, or worse. Many garages will give you a free check of your major components. Try them. If you can't or won't, jack up your truck so one wheel is in the air, grab the front tire with one hand at 9 o'clock and the other at 3 o'clock. Wiggle the tire. A very little play, is probably ok, but if you have more than 1 inch of movement, you probably have a bad wheel bearing or a ball joint or control arm. Now grab the tire from top and bottom. Try to move the tire up or down. You should have NO play, at all. Any movement is bad, probably a ball joint, but it still could be a bearing. When you're driving, if your steering wheel is wobbling side to side, it's a front wheel problem. If you just feel the wobble in your seat, it's a rear wheel problem. Don't let the problem keep getting worse. If you put used tires on, it's probably a tire. That, you can fix. Anything else I've mentioned, you can't fix without some very expensive tools, and an alignment machine. Good luck.

check your actuator check for a blocked cabin filter before the fan

You most likely have a vacuum leak. Look for a loose vacuum hose that didn't get replaced after last service. Find the source of the hiss and you'll find the leak. Read this post on some tips: http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/diagnose-squeak-noise-creaks-and-squeals/ Diagnose squeaks creaks and squeals

Computer is keeping the engine in cold start mode because of a faulty temperature sensor.

Do you still have the old switch and are you sure that the hitch pin is in place holding the switch in the right position there might have been a nylon bushing on the brake pedal shaft that's missing if you press the pedal while looking at the switch and it partially moves this is the problem that switch is not to move and the rod should press in the switches plunger which activates the lights I'm going to try to find a photo watch for the next post

Diane, There are 2 separate flashers on your vehicle, one is for the emergency/4 way lights and one flasher is for the signal lights. It may be worth the couple bucks and replacing the signal flasher as a first step. Recheck bulbs/sockets, fuses/relays, flasher. If all looks good possible signal switch is bad. Remove switch and try to clean contacts or replace switch. Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck "I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info." https://ca.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090405174036AARb2Uc 1994 Ford Ranger Turn Signal Electrical Problem 1994 Ford Ranger 93 Ranger Turn Signal Problem Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Mass air flow sensor ?

try looking on the manifold

hmm ..if you are looking for the low side air conditioner port .. then locate the condenser (thats in front of and looks like the radiator) .. you will notice two tubes going to that ..one is large the other small .. the small tube is the high pressure side .. the large tube is the low pressure side ... follow the large tube back until you find a cap that covers the low pressure port .. thats where you would fill with new refregerant (r134a) .. if you buy r134a, you can also get a filler hose and gage.. that hose will only hook up to the low pressure port ..it wont fit the high pressure port ...

for better result download the pdf file Ford Ranger 1993 to 1997 Factory Service repair manual

two things to ck 1st ck that your vac hoses all are not cracked or leaking , a connected vac gauge to a running engine will let you know in minutes 2nd ck the return wire to the throttle position sensor (key on engine off ) for wild voltage jumps as you smoothly press down acccel as these engines are notorious for getting dirt in the sensors and messing things up (must be where there mounted)

code p 0112 refers to intake air temp (IAT) sensor --circuit malfunction===cause --wiring short to graound--wiring short to positive --IAT sensor ---ECM code p 0117 refers to engine coolant temp (ECT) sensor--circuit malfunction=== causes --coolant thermostat---wiring short to ground--wiring short to positive ---ECT sensor code p 0122 refers to throttle position (TP) sensor A/ accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor A low input === causes wiring short to ground--TP/APP sensor --ECM There are 3 responses to p 0122 and all refer to TP switch /sensor plus wiring open /short to ground/ short to positive code p 0513 refers to incorrect immobilizer key=== causes immobilizer system code p 0556 refers to brake booster pressure sensor---circuit range / performance=== causes --wiring---poor connection---brake booster pressure sensor---ECM code p 0565 refers to cruise control master switch. off signal --malfunction === causes wiring---cruise control master switch--ECM by reading all the codes you will see that common causes are wiring problems and ECM so may be a quick check would be to replace the ECM with a known working unit first and work back from there

ck your impact switch, reset if needed, it its good, fuse or relay, if power is getting to pump the pump may need replaced

Ford Ranger 1996 fuse box diagram USA version Auto Genius