Code 111 is a good thing. It is simply telling you that the PCM is finished outputting codes and that there are no further problems that it needs to tell you about. On a vehicle that has no problems with the computer controls, code 111 will be the only code that you will get. The time to worry about code 111 is when you cannot get the computer to give you this code. (usually caused by a failed computer)
Code 564 is a cooling fan control circuit code. If your engine has been overheating, this code is telling you why...your cooling fan is not working. Code 564 indicates a failure of the Low speed Fan Control (LFC) relay PRIMARY circuit. It can be caused by an open or shorted LFC primary circuit control or power wire, A defective LFC Relay, or a faulty PCM.
The relay is controlled by the YELLOW/WHITE wire at Pin #35 in the PCM. This wire needs to be checked for an open or shorted circuit. The relay is powered by the ENGINE fuse (15 Amp) in the Instrument Panel Fuse Block. If the engine starts, this fuse is good because is also supplies power to the starter relay. If the fuse is good and the wire has no short to ground or open circuit between the relay and the PCM, then I would try replacing the relay to see if it resolves the problem. If not, you will have to replace your PCM.
Question edited for clarity and spelling.
Question moved from Computers to model category.
What makes you think it is the crankshaft sensor? There are so many other things it could be. Connect it to a scan tool and check for DTCs.
Fuse should be labeled as fuel pump or fuel injection. Fords also have a fuel pump relay, a fuel pump shut off button, reset, under dash by the hump, in case of crash. Could be the pump itself.
Driving with your emergency brake on is only going to affect your rear brakes. There is a cable running from the emergency brake lever to your rear brakes.
You did not say how long you drove with the emergency brake on, but even a short distance and you forced the front brakes to do the work of stopping the car. This causes overuse which translates to heat. When the brakes over heat they "fade" and do not stop the car effectively.
In addition the heavy load of doing all the stopping causes the brakes not to realign. Therefore, when you go around corners the brakes pads will rub against the rotors.
I would suggest you get the brakes looked at or look at them yourself. I can help you do the job but I would need to talk to you directly. Let me know what I can do to help.
Try cleaning the throttle body and check the gap on all the spark plugs also all electrical sensor plugs and battery terminals this could be related to engine temperature also if to hot rpms stay up longer to cool off but maybe your idle air control valve is bad when did it start?
You're jus going to have to take the unit apart and find what is binding up the cable or blend door. Maybe something in the blend door path, a toy or something that ha fallen in the ducts.
Testing the fuel pump electrical circuit would be the way to see if the fuel is the problem ! Learning how to test automotive electrical systems would also be helpful .
Fuel Pump Electrical Circuits Description and Operation
Also looking at a wiring diagram for your vehicle would be helpful as well . You would do that to see what all is involved in the fuel pump electrical circuit on your vehicle. Also pulling a spark plug wire while cranking the engine over to check for spark .
Free wiring diagrams herehttp://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html
Enter the vehicle info. year , make , model and engine size . Under system click on engine ,then under subsystem click on fuel controls . Click the search button ,then the blue links.
But first ,hook up a fuel pressure gauge instead of guessing if it's the fuel pump . You don't know any of this , suggest you take it to a qualified repair shop .
Mass air flow sensor maybe ! What is the mass air flow sensor voltage . What is TPS voltage , Check engine light on ? Testing these engine sensors an others , plus fuel system pressure an flow testing is the way to a fix ! Not somebodys guess on here . Plus not just replacing parts . Learning how it all works an testing fixes cars !
Hooking up testing equipment , scan tool , DVOM - digital volt ohm meter , lab scope etc....
Motor Age TST Diagnosing Driveability with Global OBD II
blinkers have a relay ,,that is the clicking
clicking all the time means the indicator switch and relay are
working
if all the wires are running through the relay correctly
check all the earths at the bulbs
Sounds more like it's running lean. Have you checked fuel pressure at the rail? Could be the filter. Also try pulling the vacuum line off the regulator to see if the diaphragm is split and leaking fuel into the manifold.
