20 Most Recent 1994 Ford Explorer Limited Questions & Answers

About your 1994 Ford Explorer 4.0L MFI 6cyl. the Flasher is located: Front seating area, driver side, driver side of steering column, behind access panel, mounted on fuse panel (for Turn signal).

Hope this helps.

tune it up my friend

Need to have full coolant in the system for it to read properly. Once you have this, check the temperature gauge, if it is still reading incorrectly, use an accurate thermometer and test the hot coolant to see that it is the proper temperature or close to it. If not, change the thermostat. If you are losing coolant look for obvious leaks. If none are seen, look at your oil to see if it is foamy or contains coolant. if it does, then you probably need new head gaskets. If not, look at the exhaust, if it is white, then you probably need new head gaskets. If the coolant is coming out the overflow and the cooling system seems too high pressure, then you probably need new head gaskets.

Please refrain from using bad language.

My personal suggestion would be to go for these repair catalogs. I know this website www.reliable-store.com that i used to get manuals from, and they have all models online. I also brought for my 1989 BMW, such old model, they had it and it was very good manual. Go ahead, I bet.

Since it seems no one has answered in 3 days I will say something. Some of the 4 wheel systems use vacuum to lock and unlock the 4 wheel system. There are solenoids in the transfer case which adjust the functions into 4 wheel auto, 4 wheel, and 4 wheel low settings. On the units that use electric, the electric strength or power determines how far the electric solenoid extends or travels to change gear functions. These are sensitive electric settings. A burned out dashlight factory wired into that circuit can change the result of what 4 wheel function you will receive. So will a bad connection of a plug-in to the transfer case. A technician can test the wires to the transfer case and see what electric readings are going into the transfer case when the dash is set to the different dash settings. Besides a Dealer, a really good transmission shop can perform this test.

try a 12 point wrench. some used a 12 point nut. make sure it fits properly, you do not want to strip these.

When you pushed the pistons back into the caliper so the new pads fit over the rotors did you look an see how full the master cylinder was ? You did push the pistons in didn't you ? Over flowed from master cylinder ? After replacing pads you didn't pump up the brakes ? The pedal will go to the floor but should pump up . Just replacing pads wouldn't make the master cylinder go out . How was the pedal before your brake job ?

Do the hazzard lights flash ?

what I think has happened here is the outside key bezel is turning freely and not the cylinder itself try to put the gear shift in neutral and try pressing the pin in remember to step on the brake pedal while doing this so the shifter can move if this does not work try to get the cylinder straight again as if you were putting the key in for the first time and try using a very small pick to work the key out break off the cylinder bezel if you have to get better access in the cylinder if no results try sticking a flat blade screw driver into the cylinder and then depress the pin and try turning it it should release if not post back and I'll try to think of something else for you to do also if you try some crazy glue on the key with a small screw driver holding it for a few minutes or wedging it till dry this might help slide out the broken key I'm not there so you must determine if the key it self has twisted in the cylinder if so start drilling it out or also try to hammer the broken piece in further and maybe it will activate all the pins in the cylinder so you can turn and remove it just try not to damage the steering column part where the cylinder slides in good luck and still thinking stephen

check the starter solenoid

https://s29.postimg.org/9pcd6l3uv/instrument_cluster.jpg Click on the link This is a partial, should be enough to show voltage and ground.

Are you sure your fluid level is correct? When they don't shift until warmed up,that is usually dirt or low fluid. I would get a coupla cans of SEA-FOAM trans. treatment,NOT the motor treatment. Follow directions and sit in the car shifting it thru all gears many times. Take it out on freeway and kick it down to make it shift down and let up suddenly to make it upshift. Do this several times. If it starts working for you,do a filter/fluid change really soon. I have saved them this way,but it's about 50/50 that you'll need a PROPER rebuild or replacement.There is dirt in there somewhere or the pump is giving up on you. don-ohio

It could be ignition pack, under the hood, you can verify this by, pulling out one spark plug, Pull the fuse to the fuel pump, clame the threads of the spark plug to the frame of the car. DO NOT TOUCH OR HOLD the spark plug WHILE CRANKING THE CAR. This should not hurt the ECM of the vehicle. If you see a bright blue sparks, its not an ignition issue. It could also be the spark plug wires. They should be changed approximately at 80K miles. If there is a check engine light on, take it to a car parts store and they will read the codes, to help troubleshoot the problem.

Which fuse on my 1994 Ford explorer Eddie Bauer controls power to 4x4 switch and lights for 4x4

check for vacuum lines missing, actuator not working

eat more cheerio's