20 Most Recent 2003 Dodge Durango Questions & Answers

These are the best sites for wiring diagrams. Some are subscription sites but you can take just one month cheaply. https://www.google.com/search?q=1998+dodge+durango+door+locks+wiring+diagram https://www.google.com/search?q=2003+dodge+durango+door+locks+wiring+diagram ..

THE pcm RUNS LOTS OF EVAP tests top cause , gas cap loose 10000 : 1 common like SUN is hot. reset the DTC and drive. using scan tool for sure.

1. Loose fuel gap
2. Faulty fuel tank pressure sensor (almost never fails)
3. Faulty wiring for the fuel tank pressure sensor
4. Faulty purge control solenoid ( I just clean it) common !!!!!
5. Clogged or damaged charcoal canister
6. Vacuum leak

i remove #4 and clean it and flush it with walmart silicon spray,this silicon magic is super super slippery and can last years. wd40 (old skool blue /yellow useless) use SILICON only. even a new cap first reset the code with scan tool,do not try to drive it off can take a month,(pain) reset it. if still fail, clean #4 the leak is real 99.% of the time. and cause big time simple. cap bad #4 valve hung up,. easy easy fix. all valves here can be fixed with silicon spray,. it means gas vapor vents leak. assume easy fix not hard labor on smoke machine. leave mr smoke to last chance garage act. and save a bundle.

have you replaced the reverse light switch yet? this is the most common problem other then bulbs.

Hi thanks for your question' The electronic EGR valve and solenoid assembly is attached to the rear of the left cylinder head ,

1. Remove electrical connector (5) at top of EGR valve solenoid.
2. Remove tube mounting bolt (1) at intake manifold.

1. Remove two bolts (4) connecting EGR tube (1) to valve assembly.
2. Remove gasket located between EGR tube flange and EGR valve assembly.
3. Remove two EGR valve mounting bolts (5).
4. Separate valve assembly (3) from engine.
5. Remove and discard metal gasket located between cylinder head and valve assembly.

INSTALLATION

1. Clean area at rear of left cylinder head where it joins base of EGR valve.
2. Clean EGR tube where it joins EGR valve.
3. Position new gasket between EGR valve and cylinder head.
4. Position EGR valve to cylinder head. Install and tighten two bolts (5). Refer to Torque Specifications.
5. Position new gasket between EGR tube flange and EGR valve assembly.
6. Position EGR tube (1) to side of EGR valve and into intake manifold.
   1. Install EGR tube flange bolt (1) at intake manifold. Tighten bolt. Refer to Torque Specifications.
   2. Connect electrical connector (5) to top of EGR valve solenoid (2).Do a final tightening of two EGR tube bolts (4). Refer to Torque Specifications

You need a Mobile Auto Electrician with a pro grade bi-directional scan tool computer. Pulling fuses won't fix it. If your battery is running down, you have parasitic draw and that needs finding as well. https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me There are two different reset procedures here. Try the one with the Valet Button https://www.google.com/search?q=2003+Dodge+Durango+reset+security ..

may be a fuse,brake light switch check wiring connector at switch.

Probably a bad shift solenoid. Garage charge $250-400 to test and repair.

there is an emissions sticker under your hood. that shows routing.

It has ABS so it has to be pressure bled from the caliper upwards. Sounds like you purchased the wrong part. Should be identical https://www.google.com/search?q=2003+Dodge+Durango+brake+booster+parts. .

You have a hub/wheel bearing going out. You need to jack up the vehicle on each side. Grab the top and bottom of the wheel and try to move it in/out at the top and bottom. If this does not work then roll the wheel as fast as you can and see if you can hear which one it is. Good Luck.

It is a malfunction in your climate control system

This sounds like an oil pressure problem, The very first thing I would do is if it's almost due for an oil change do it now, if not replace the oil filter it actually has a diaphragm in it to keep the oil from leaking back into the engine when the engine is off causing the oil pump to have to fill the filter before lubricating the engine causing the lifters to rap and the connecting rods to knock, remember to add oil if you just change the filter. If the engine has a lot of miles you might want to consider an oil treatment like SLICK 50 it coats the friction surfaces and prevents wear. I hope this helps. Take care.

Possibly broken wires or burned fuse. Check wiring above accelerator pedal. Check engine control fuses. Also check wiring near injector pump and throttle--top of engine.

Make sure that the cts is ok. Use a scanner

check for codes with scanner it most likely is the abs sensor on the rear differential housing that is bad easy fix

have a radiator shop check for blocked cores have a compression test done water pump not an issue unless you have removed the ac compressor out of the system and now the water pump is being driven in reverse because an idle pulley was not used in place of the compressor

No, your brake lamps should only work when brake pedal is activated. Your headlamp switch shouldn't have anything to do with brake lites. Sometimes if there is a faulty ground, your lamps may act weird? Did I miss-understand your post?

under the hood .fuse box