20 Most Recent 2006 Ford Explorer Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. It is difficult to test things like relays when you have an intermittent fault because it could test okay 9 times out of 10. They are not expensive, I would swap out the fuel pump relay for a new one. If that doesn't fix it, you need and auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool computer. They can record what is happening when things go wrong.

It is likely to be a shift solenoid, you need an auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool computer to read the codes and diagnose operation of all the solenoids.

May need this:

In the event that no lights coming on in the dashboard and no other electrical buyers work, the battery could be totally dead or there is no association between the battery and the vehicle electrical framework. Check in the event that the battery terminals look tight. On the off chance that the battery is totally dead, kicking off might help. www.autoparts-miles.com/used-engines

The Code to your door keypad is located inside the rear storage area where your jack is stored. Its kind of hard to get to but its on the module in front of your jack on the backside on a sticker. Fold down the back seat. Open the storage compartment on the driver's side of your Explorer. Using a flashlight, look at the plastic cover hidden in the compartment above the jack. There are 5 large numbers. This is your code. It does not have a label telling you what the number is. Try it and it should work.

God Bless and Good luck!
Fold down back seat. Open the storage compartment on the driver's side of truck. Using a flashlight, look at the whit plastic cover hidden in the compartment above the jack. There are 5 large numbers. This is your code. It does not tell you that it is. Try it and it should work. Good luck!! 03 explorer xlt Albany, NY
Fold down back seat. Open the storage compartment on the driver's side of truck. Using a flashlight, look at the whit plastic cover hidden in the compartment above the jack. There are 5 large numbers. This is your code. It does not tell you that it is. Try it and it should work. Good luck!! 03 explorer xlt Albany, NY

Hello. It seems there is a problem with the forward/back switch; works to GI forward but not backward. I recommend replacing that switch first to see what will happen. Good luck and keep me informed; if you want to.

the pin is most likely the locking pin from the shifter when you push down from park to drive you hear the click it goes into notches as to the steering that also has a pin that when you turn off ignition it locks into notches they can break or stick https://www.carid.com/ford-explorer-transmission-shifters/ shows exploded diagram of shifter

The fuel panel is located on the left side of the steering wheel near the brake pedal - to access the fuse you need to remove the panel though.

Check the battery, put in a new one.

In the owners manual, you will find reset procedures.

I found this for ya, hope it helps!

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Oil Change Reset
A press of the OIL CHANGE RESET switch will allow you to
reset the oil life feature to 100% (or your Personalized Oil Reset
Percentage). After you have the oil changed, you must execute
the following procedure. Press the OIL CHANGE RESET switch
and hold for five seconds as the M/C counts down for five
seconds. After a successful reset the Message Center will display
“OIL LIFE RESET TO 100%.” If you have established a
Personalized Oil Reset Percentage, the display will show that
percentage instead of 100%. To ensure accurate oil life
indicators, perform this reset procedure only after an oil change.
Your Personalized Oil Reset Percentage allows you to establish a
smaller oil change interval than the manufacturer’s
recommended interval. To establish your Personalized Oil Reset
Percentage perform the following procedure:
1. Press and hold the OIL CHANGE RESET switch and press
the RESET switch while the display is still counting down
the 5 seconds to reset. The display will change to “START
OIL LIFE AT XXX%.”
2. Press the OIL CHANGE RESET switch until the displayed
percentage is the Personalized Oil Reset Percentage that you
desire. Your choices are 100%, 90%, 80%, 70%, 60%, 50%,
40% and 30%.

Does security / theft light flash or pulse while cranking? Is there an aftermarket security system installed ? Sometimes the throttle bodies needed to be cleaned after battery disconnect on those truck. They lose their minimum air setting

Are you allowing for warm up time? Extremely cold temps can make fluids thick and slow moving

For 2006 up it is none of the above. The problem is a little $5 switch on the right side of the shifter. If you take the console cover off from around the shifter and look at the right side while you step on the brake and squeeze the shifter button you will see a horizontal pin slide up and down. There is also a solenoid that pushes a plastic piece out of the way of the pin. Ford insists on charging you for a whole new shifter assembly insted of replacing the little switch. They knew the switches were bad and gave you an access hole in the console to get to it with a long skinny screwdriver. Look under the rubber bottom piece of the cup holder and you will see a small square hole to stick the screwdriver in to get the switch to manualy release.

Check the bolts that connect the shifter cable to the shifter lever.

THE EASIEST WAY TO REPLACE THIS RADIATOR IS TO REMOVE THE FREON FROM THE AC SYSTEM, DISCONNECT THE LINES GOING TO THE AC CONDENSER, REMOVE THE FAN SHROUD TOP AND BOTTOM, THEN REMOVE THE 13MM BOLTS ON THE UPPER PART OF THE RADIATOR SUPPORTS. REMOVE THE AIR DIFLECTOR ON THE BOTTOM OF THE VEHICLE, REMOVE THE AIR FILTER ASSEMBLY. LAST YOU NEED THE TOOL TO DISCONNECT THE TRANS LINES. ONCE THIS IS DONE THE RADIATOR AND THE CONDENSER WILL COME OUT IN ONE PIECE. AFTER THIS IS DONE YOU CAN EASILY REMOVE THE RADIATOR FROM THE SUPPORT.
IF YOU DO NOT HAVE THE TOOL TO REMOVE THE TRANS LINES YOU CAN UNSCREW THE TRANS LINES FROM THE RADIATOR. YOU WILL HAVE TO REMOVE THE FITTINGS OFF THE NEW RADIATOR AND USE THE OLD ONES. ONCE YOU HAVE THE RADIATOR IN PUT THE FAN SHROUD BACK IN AND TIGHTEN THE BOLTS. THEN IF YOU HAD TO UNSCREW THE TRANS LINES DUE TO NO TOOL, REMOVE ONE OF THE FITTINGS OFF THE NEW RADIATOR AND SCREW THE OLD FIITING BACK IN AND TIGHTEN IT. THEN REMOVE THE OTHER TRANS FITTING AND SCREW IT IN USING THE OLD FITTING. DO NOT REMOVE BOTH OF THE TRANS FIITINGS ON THE NEW RADIATOR AT THE SAME TIME OR YOU WILL LOSE THE RESEVOIR IN THE RADIATOR. ONCE THIS IS ALL DONE EVACUATE THE AC SYSTEM, RECHARGE THE AC, FILL THE RADIATOR WITH COOLANT AND YOU SHOULD BE GOOD TO GO. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND REPLACING THE RADIATOR, THERMOSTAT, AND THE RADIATOR CAP AT THE SAME TIME. I BELIEVE THE THERMOSTATS IN THIS VEHICLE DO NOT OPEN AS DESIGNED WHICH CREATES VERY HIGH PRESSURE IN THE COOLING SYSTEM WHICH CAUSES THE RADIATOR TO FAIL PREMATURELY.
AFTER STARTING THE VEHICLE CHECK THE UPPER RADIATOR HOSE AND MAKE SURE IT IS NOT ROCK HARD, IF YOU DID NOT REPLACE THE THERMOSTAT. IF IT IS ROCK HARD REPLACE THE THERMOSTAT.
THINGS TO CHECK:
CHECK THE RAD/CONDESER SUPPORTS FOR CRACKS YOU MAY FIND THEY ARE BROKEN IF THEY ARE REPLACE THE SUPPORT. IT IS AVAILABLE FROM FORD.

You have to bleed it.there is air trapped. What i did is opened up the peekock .and filled the radiator up until water stoped spuing out.

https://s33.postimg.org/f0juccxm7/interior_lamps.jpg Click on the link. Found that fuse for interior lamps. It's located in the smart junction box.