20 Most Recent 1996 Dodge Stratus Questions & Answers

There's possibly a broken spring in the drum and your brakes are 'locked on' or your parking brake cable is wound too tight. Did you recently do any brake work on the car? Did you slam on the brakes? A repair manual can show you step by step troubleshooting and repair instructions on the entire car, based on a complete teardown and rebuilt with pictures. I have used Haynes Repair Manual from Auto Zone for $20. Best investment for one who has a used car. Good Luck!

Sounds like a bad fuel pump to me.Or dirty fuel lines/injectors/regulator.

1. Using sprocket installation tool No. 6792 or equivalent, press the crankshaft sprocket onto the crankshaft.
2. Install the camshaft sprockets onto the camshafts. Install and tighten the sprocket retaining bolts to 75 ft. lbs. (101 Nm).

Fig. Fig. 4: Proper camshaft sprocket alignment for timing belt installation

1. Install the crankshaft sprocket. Set the crankshaft sprocket to Top Dead Center (TDC) by aligning the notch on the sprocket with the arrow on the oil pump housing.
2. Set the camshafts to align the timing marks on the sprockets.
3. Move the crankshaft to 1 / 2 notch before TDC.
4. Install the timing belt starting at the crankshaft, then around the water pump sprocket, idler pulley, camshaft sprockets, and then around the tensioner pulley.
5. Move the crankshaft sprocket to TDC to take up the belt slack.
6. Install the tensioner to the engine block, but do not tighten.
7. Using a torque wrench on the tensioner pulley apply 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm) of tighten to the tensioner pulley.
8. With torque being applied to the tensioner pulley, move the tensioner up against the tensioner pulley bracket and tighten the fasteners to 275 inch lbs. (31 Nm).
9. Remove the tensioner plunger pin. The tension is correct when the plunger pin can be removed and replaced easily.
10. Rotate the crankshaft 2 revolutions and recheck the timing marks. Wait several minutes and then recheck that the plunger pin can easily be removed and installed.
11. Reinstall the front timing belt cover(s).
12. Reinstall the engine mount bracket.
13. Reinstall the right engine mount.
14. Remove the floor jack from under the vehicle.
15. Install the crankshaft damper and tighten to 105 ft. lbs. (142 Nm).
16. Install the accessory drive belts and adjust to the proper tension.
17. Install the right inner splash shield.
18. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
19. Check for leaks and proper engine operation.

Source: Autozone.com

Over

The theft device may be active.call the dealer or do a google search on how to reset it.

the clutch kit it gone replace it

most wont exceed 25lb sorry my browser is down try auto zone libraiy

in the trunk

no inertia switch only fuses and relays

Hey Monica, it's very eazy drain antifreeze to a level below hose to remove , loosen clamps and or buy new ones if needed , with clamps off twist hose to break it free and do the same on the other end and replace hose ,tighten clamps and refill coolant that's it . Woody

This should b

replace complete fuel pump

Tune up,dirty throttle body,fuel filter,dirty injectors.

It's hydralic,your slave cylinder probably is bad.

are you sure you needed the coil pack to begin with you may need to have the timing belt replaced but if you know that the belt is ok then you should try replacing the crank sensor. this will give you atleast a place to start.

Did you let it run with cap off for long time with heater on while you refilled system? Usually let rad fan come on and off 2 or 3 times with cap off to bleed system properly.

oil change period is every 6 months or 5000 miles or 10000klms however as the oil collects moisture from incomplete combustion any short runs that do not allow the engine to come to full operating temperature to boil off the moisture will need a more regular oil change So if the car does runs of at least 1/2 hour the the 6 months will be ok On the other hand if it is only used to go around the corner to a corner shop then more frequent oil changes will be required Good policy is oil filter with the oil every 6 months or if more frequent with every second oil change

It appears that the hose to the carbon canister is either disconnected or has a hole in it. It won't hurt your car to drive it this way. If you are really concerned about it, replace the carbon canister and the connecting hose and forget about it for another 15 years or so.

If you are mechanically inclined - the cheapest part is going to be at a "Do It Yourself" Auto Salvage Yard. If you have "Craig's List" available - you can find auto mechanics that do work on the side. If you want new parts and you have Internet Service - "Google" the part you want. "Rock Auto Parts" (Internet) is a pretty good source with a lot of options. Let me know if that helps you at all?