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2004 Chevrolet TrailBlazer Questions & Answers
My 2004 trailblazer has a knocking soung at idle
OK, we'll need more information here. Is the sound there when your in park/neutral, only when it is in gear, or both? Does it knock 2 or 3 times then stop or is it constant like a machine gun? Does the 'knocking' change speed with the engine as you gently press the gas pedal?
Please use the comment box below and I'll see what help I can give you.
2004 chevy trailblazer inner tie rod torque specks
Torque should be about 30-40 ft lbs. This is essentially tight by hand, no torque wrench is often used. See this how to video: Sorry the video wouldn't upload. But the shop (A1 Auto) tightened by hand and for me that's 30-40 ft lbs with open end wrenches.
2004 trailblazer, 4wd, shifts fine when cold. Once warm it hangs in 2nd a few seconds longer than it should then slips into 3rd. Other times it shifts fine cold or warm.
The 2004 trailblazers came with the worst transmission Chevy makes...I can never remember the entire label for them but it's the 40 instead of the 70 they commonly used in the 96-99 silverados...it's known for going bad with the actual shift gear components but also the shift solenoids have a tendency to stop working as well...there are videos on YouTube that are very informative..one even shows the guy tearing one down for a complete rebuild..the solenoids are also a pain to figure out if u aren't familiar with rebuilding or repairing these types of transmissions...the first thing I would do in your situation is get a new gasket and filter for the trans and put fresh trans fluid in it..DO NOT FLUSH THE FLUID! Just let it drain when u take the pan off..clean out the pan and make sure there's no big chunks in it..if u find chunks..it's on its way out..if not, clean off any excess debris around the lip of the pan as well as the gasket area transmission side..use a rag..never scrape with a metal anything..they have aluminum housing and can easily be damaged..if any build up or gunk is on the area the gasket goes...use very fine sand paper and water to smooth it out...when u place the gasket and pan in place..use a star pattern on the bolts using your hands to get them started then tighten them down to where u barely have to put pressure on wrenching them..if u see the gasket starting to bulge out at all, it's too tight at this point..back it off some till it's not bulging out..tighten in an X pattern respectively until theyre all tight..if u have a torque wrench that shows lower ft lbs or inch lbs...the owners manual should have the numbers listed for those bolts..if not..get a chilton book ...if u plan on having this vehicle for a year or more lol...get a chilton repair manual cuz u will need it...lol..fill up the trans fluid to full when running and in park..don't over fill...let it sit and run for around 15 mins on a dry concrete surface and check for any leaks..I've just ran into a transmission that someone used gasket maker on and went overboard with it...every transmission guy I've ever spoke to says not to use that stuff ...get the name brand gasket from a reputable part store like Napa...it's not worth the few $ saved going generic when it's for the transmission...they're expensive to replace or rebuild...this was the first thing I did to my 05 LS when I purchased it...it had been slipping from second to third when I drove it home from the dealer...it hasn't done it since...hope this helps..
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