20 Most Recent 2004 Chevrolet TrailBlazer - Page 4 Questions & Answers

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I'd take it to an parts store and get a reading. Sounds like a MAF sensor possibly.

Check the belt tensioner to see if it's weak or worn. See post below. The compressor sound may be the secondary air pump kicking in. If so, that's normal on a cold start Diagnose belt tensioner

Hello Linda! Replacing the HDM relay for the low beams will not trigger any of these problems. If the blower isn't working, you probably need to get a new blower motor resistor (for manual controls) or blower motor module (looks the same) for automatic climate control. To access, need to remove the plastic kick panel near your feet on passenger side. After removed, look up you'll see the resistor, it's about 4" long with 2 small screws in it. You'll also need to drop the glovebox door to remove the connector from the resistor to the motor. Suggestion- buy a pig tail for the resistor also, these tend to melt. Very common problem. The ABS dash could be a bad wheel hub assembly or a hub starting to go bad.

Front fuse boxRear fuse box

Your door lock mechanism is wire not rods. That's why door won't open. Need to get power somehow. Look under car and see of you can reach up to the hood latch and release mechanism to open hood. If so open hood and hook up a jumper pack. This should allow you to unlock door.

For engine to run it has to have: Fuel, air and spark. So if it doesn't start, something's missing. Is your fuel pressure OK? Is your spark present? Is ECM firing injectors? Check all those basics and I'm sure you'll find what's wrong.

check if the speed sensor melted again. Then you have a problem of figuring out where the short is. You'll need a mechanic to help with that cuz the variables are a lot. but double ck the wiring going into the speed sensor for fraying/broken wires., look in the connector to see if there is any gunk. hope this helps a little.

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Hard to say - not being very careful when replacing the battery can generate voltage spikes that can damage electronic equipment in the vehicle, or put certain processors in a locked up state. You can try disconnecting the negative battery cable for a few minutes and then reconnect it to see if the various systems reset themselves. If the problem persists, your HVAC control module may be damaged. As far as the rear air is concerned, you first should check the wiring and connector on the switch - may not have been connected properly, the switch may have been damaged or a wire may have been cut.

On the right side of the engine boss right ahead of the cylinder head if I remember correctly its under the alternator or what ever accessory is in the upper front corner of the engine. Passenger side/Right side. Hope this helps. Thats for the serial number, block cating number is on the block boss back where the oil pump drive is, right where the transmission bolts to the cylinder block at the top.

Certainly sounds like the ac compressor is stalling the vehicle. This usually occurs when the high pressure switch in the system is faulty, and not deactivating the clutch temporarily when it senses a high pressure in the system. An intermittent failure in the switch is not uncommon - try having it replaced.

Weak battery or bad connection

I agree with Enrique. Just to add, Maybe you can take shift linkage loose and move tranny lever by hand, see if you can get it into park position? There are safety issues trying to do that, You don't want the vehicle to move. Safety is your responsibility. If the vehicle is on an incline, you may need to nudge it a little, so the tranny isn't holding the vehicle. Can you check for applicable tranny codes, if there are any? Just because the dash lites come on, doesn't mean the battery has a full charge. Just my opinion.

Water is certainly getting into something electrical that should be sealed (maybe because of a windshield leak). You will have to find out where the water is getting in - under the dash, or if there is a loose electrical connector or the fuse cover is loose under the hood.

I should guess it to be the electric fuel pump, although I thought those sounds had been eliminated by the manufacturers long ago. Perhaps you could raise the car in the air and get underneath it and see ( or I should say "hear") That sound from the fuel pump should not mean it is bad or is going bad. God bless your efforts.

Possibly a defective ABS sensor, or low brake fluid. Recommend a reputable mechanic to assess the issue.

Are you on an incline? If so try rocking your vehicle forward and backward with others helping you. Your transmission may be bound. While the vehicle is rocking you should be able to shift the transmission into neutral.

Get the trouble codes read. Otherwise you're totally in the dark about which wheel is causing the problem

There are internal valve timing parts that are not operating correctly. Take it to a dealer to find out whether your warranty will cover the repairs.