20 Most Recent 2007 Ford F-150 Questions & Answers

change relay

Doesn't have one , your vehicle has drive by wire . ETC - electronic throttle control . Is the check engine light on or a yellow wrench symbol lit on the instrument cluster ? What's the problem your having ? Won't idle ,revs are too high etc... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z9i22CUqWd4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8q6qZQJQEIU

P2104 - Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) System - Forced Idle Description: The TAC system is in the failure mode effects management (FMEM) mode of forced idle. Possible Causes: Diagnostic Aids: This DTC is an informational DTC and may be set in combination with a number of other DTCs which are causing the FMEM. Diagnose other DTCs first. Application Key On Engine Off Key On Engine Running Continuous Memory All GO to Pinpoint Test QE . P2107 - Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Processor Description: The electronic throttle control (ETC) area of the powertrain control module (PCM) failed the self-test. The concern could be the result of an incorrect throttle position (TP) command, or TAC motor wires shorted together. Possible Causes:

• TAC motor wire shorted together
• TAC motor circuit wires short to PWR
• Damaged electronic throttle body (ETB)
• Damaged PCM

Diagnostic Aids: A TAC motor circuit PID reading may indicate a concern, if available. Application Key On Engine Off Key On Engine Running Continuous Memory All GO to Pinpoint Test DV . P2111 - Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) System - Stuck Open Description: This powertrain control module (PCM) fault status indicates the throttle plate is at a greater angle than commanded. Possible Causes:

• Binding throttle body, stuck open
• TAC motor circuits are cross-wired
• TAC motor harness circuits are shorted together
• Damaged PCM

Diagnostic Aids: Application Key On Engine Off Key On Engine Running Continuous Memory All GO to Pinpoint Test DV . Electronic Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) The electronic TAC is a DC motor controlled by the PCM (requires 2 wires). The gear ratio from the motor to the throttle plate shaft is 17:1. There are 2 designs for the TAC, parallel and in-series. The parallel design has the motor under the bore parallel to the plate shaft. The motor housing is integrated into the main housing. The in-series design has a separate motor housing. Two springs are used; one is used to close the throttle (main spring) and the other is in a plunger assembly that results in a default angle when no power is applied. The force of the plunger spring is 2 times stronger than the main spring. The default angle is usually set to result in a top vehicle speed of 48 km/h (30 mph). Typically this throttle angle is 7 to 8 degrees from the hard stop angle. The closed throttle plate hard stop is used to prevent the throttle from binding in the bore (~0.75 degree). This hard stop setting is not adjustable and is set to result in less airflow than the minimum engine airflow required at idle. For additional information, refer to Torque Based Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) in this section. Electronic Throttle Body (ETB) Position Sensor The ETB position sensor has 2 signal circuits in the sensor for redundancy. The redundant ETB position signals are required for increased monitoring. The first ETB position sensor signal (TP1) has a negative slope (increasing angle, decreasing voltage) and the second signal (TP2) has a positive slope (increasing angle, increasing voltage). During normal operation the negative slope ETB position sensor signal (TP1) is used by the control strategy as the indication of throttle position. The 2 ETB position sensor signals make sure the PCM receives a correct input even if 1 signal has a concern. There is 1 reference voltage circuit and 1 signal return circuit for the sensor. For additional information, refer to Torque Based Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) in this section. 2007 PCED On Board Diagnostics SECTION 1: Description and Operation Procedure revision date: 08/10/2006

https://s22.postimg.org/s5lrytyvl/5.4_l_engine.jpg Click on the link for some of the wiring. I don't know what testing you have done. Engine cranking, you have spark at the plugs and fuel injector pulse? Are there any applicable trouble codes? To check codes yourself, at the least, you need an obd2 code reader that will check manufacturer specific codes as well as po codes. In the diagram, fuse 9--20 amp is hot all the time, for load side of relay, terminal 30. If you unplug relay and use jumper wire between terminal 30 and terminal 87, does the fuel pump run? There is also an inertia switch. You have a fuel pump driver module, I can't rule out a problem in that area?

What relay did you replace ? Starter relay ? Removing the relay you may have changed connector position in the fuse / relay box where the relay plugs into . Wiggle the relay see if that does anything . At the relay base jump pin's 30 & 87 with jumper wire , it should crank the engine over . If you look on the bottom of the relay you will see 4 set's of numbers 30 & 87 are load side of the relay . If you were to test with a voltmeter ,pin 30 would have Battery voltage ,Pin 87 goes to the S terminal on the starter solenoid . Pins 85 & 86 are the control side .When you turn the key to start B+ voltage goes through the run / start diode ,located in the AUX relay box 1 through the digital transmission range sensor to pin 86 of the starter relay ,pin 85 goes to the PCM .Where the PCM supply's a ground energizing the starter relay closing the contacts inside sending B+ voltage to the starter solenoid S terminal . Do you have a automatic trans or manuel ? Move gear selector to neutral , check out wiring diagram here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Watch videos on youtube for basic electrical testing , voltage drop testing etc.... How to test a relay . Test the circuit ! How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit

Videos on youtube showing how to !

it's possible that the connection at the power distribution box is corroded this is the fuse box under the hood you will see a cable from the positive battery cable attached there. disconnect the battery on both sides then the box connection clean them with alcohol/brake parts cleaner and a rag if white acid is present or greenish blue oxidation lightly brush it away and use a very light sand paper or an emery board that women use for there nails DO NOT USE A WIRE BRUSH ON THE TERMINALS THIS WILL MAKE THEM SMALLER AND THE BATTERY TERMINALS WILL BE LOOSE FITTING THIS WILL CREATE BATTERY DISCONNECTION ISSUES YOU CAN USE AN OLD TOOTHBRUSH//// AFTER just lightly use the sand paper to make the surface shiny then if you have carbon conductive grease apply it to all connections /////the box cable/////the battery terminals and reconnect all connections and while your at it clean the cable connections to the starter the same way and alternator cable connection once done your problem should be solved but if not you have now eliminated power from under the hood that can cause this and this is the most common one DO NOT USE DIELECTRIC GREASE OR ANY OTHER GREASE THAT IS NOT CONDUCTIVE//// If your problem is still present post back and we will go deeper into the wiring system but for now what was described above should be what's needed remember///NO WIRE BRUSH ON THE BATTERY POST//TERMINALS/// ONLY CARBON CONDUCTIVE GREASE OR BATTERY GREASE THE FIRST ONE IS THE BEST OVERALL AND CAN BE BOUGHT AT AN ELECTRONIS STORE///// AND ONLY LIGHT SAND PAPER 1000 GRIT AND VERY LIGHTLY SHINE ALL METAL SURFACES AND GREASE HAVE FUN AND GOOD LUCK STEPHEN

Interior fuse box, the owners manual should say, f2.40--20amp. That is voltage for load side of relay, probably terminal 30. Then there is the control side of relay, usually terminal 85 or 86, that voltage appears to hot with key on. So you need voltage for both the load side of relay and the control side. The fuel pump relay is usually grounded by the pcm. You also have a fuel pump shut off switch, passenger side foot well, behind the kick panel.

Shift solenoids are inside the transmission. Access them by removing the valve body cover on the transmission. You will need to let the oil out of the transmission first. The valve body cover is much like the oil pan on the engine.

your can look that up on youtube and it will let you see how to and its pretty easy. good luck

Doesn't hurt to try. Turn the key on and off eight times, the locks should start going up and down. Press both the open and close buttons on the remote at the same time, release them and it should work. This is how to program a remote to Fords.

Not sure what a "fuse diagram" is, but fuses are usually labeled in the fuse block. Most cheap shop manuals include a chart of which fuse does what.

visit some local ford truck forums?

Check your coils, check spark, and look for a loose of off vacuum line.

Question edited for clarity, fix abbreviations (in lower case). Question moved to model category. Please don't type in all CAPS, it is considered SHOUTING and is harder to read. In the link https://www.google.com/search?q=1978+ford+f-150+5.8+vacuum+hose+diagram https://www.google.com/search?q=1978+ford+f-150+5.8+service+manual ..

Question edited for clarity and toss in some CAPS. Question moved to model category. Your vehicle is full of 'front seals'. Wheel bearing seals. Brake caliper seals. Front transmission seal. Plus a load of engine seals. At minimum, a full socket set, a full set of open ended and ring, wrenches and a seal pick. Probably circlip pliers. Google 1992 Ford F-150 replace (which one) seal and watch the videos.

Vacuum diagrams for a 1978 Ford F150 are included in this shop manual https://www.fordshopmanual.com/ford-truck-shop-manuals/1978-ford-truck-shop-manual-pdf-download/

Question edited for clarity, typos and words that are incorrect 'automator' to 'alternator'. Question moved to model category. Put a battery charger on it for at least 8 hours on 6 amp charge. Make sure the battery ground has a good contact using a digital multimeter. After 8 hours, start the car and run it. Next day, try and start again. If the battery is flat, you have parasitic draw. https://www.fixya.com/cars/r29903527-parasitic_draw_car_batteries One further thought, does this old vehicle have a security system and engine immobilizer? Do you have a steady or flashing red light anywhere. You may be locked out of starting the engine because you disconnected the battery. In fact Goggle says it does have anti-theft.

1995 f150 theft light flashing, cannot start!

Ford-Trucks.com https://www.ford-trucks.com > forums > 1190498-199... Sep 18, 2012 - Driver's door is unlocked by pressing the UNLOCK button of a remote entry transmitter. Two minutes and 45 seconds after the system has been ... Dashboard Theft indicator. Anybody knows how it works? May 27, 2010 HELP!! Im stuck!! How to reset antitheft on 96 f350 Dec 6, 2012 How to remove anti-theft 95 F150? - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Jun 18, 2005 1995 F-150 Ignition/Alarm Problem - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Aug 27, 2018 More results from www.ford-trucks.com It's easier than you might think. In most cases, the anti-theft system on a Ford F-150 can be reset by turning the vehicle to "accessory" mode and leaving the key in the ignition for several minutes until the anti-theft light shuts off. Feb 10, 2021

Ford F-150: Resetting the Anti-Theft System - VehicleHistory

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