Mazda Cars & Trucks - Page 2 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

My guess is you need a new switch. These go out pretty frequently and Ive already replaced mine in the ole 2008 once. From the sound of things, if it was sitting for a bit, it may also have had some time to get some moisture in there which tends to rust out things quicker than anyone would like, especially on those pesky little electrical components nearest the outside. So it was more likely related to its general age and sitting without any air going through it for a few months that caused the failure, rather than being related to the jump start.

If they are just ground wires you can ground them to just about anything. There is one to engine block, one to transmission, one to alternator, one to body of the car, one to intake manifold (thats the hard one), one to the top of the engine, and if you really want to you can hook one up to the exhaust header, which supposably kills static electricity within your exhaust for less resistance. Shoot, even the bolts that connect the tranny to the engine would work.

Did the same thing to a late 90s MR2 I believe, put an aftermarket intake in it, went puddle jumping in the PNW and sucked up a sizeable amount of water and had to replace the whole engine... Also, I have a Mazda 3 and the way the airbox sits in the front of the car leaves a fair chance water sprayed up into the bottom of it can get sucked into the engine as it just sits on top of the lower air intake and there is nothing sealing the two. In the pic, its piece #11 that sort of snorkels itself into piece #3 without much holding them together, they just sort of sit on one another. My money is on you sucking up a sizeable chunk of H2O and trashing the motor.

For $900 I would have someone else do it. Just dropping the transmission itself is bit of work as you need to support the engine with something while you drop it cause you end up removing 2/3 of the mounts to get the tranny out. Not only that you need to pull the cv axles, wheels, drain the fluids (and then dispose of them) and just about everything attached to them to get it out of there (battery, starter, filter mounts). Add onto that the potential of breaking bolts, stripping bolts, losing bolts, and not mounting everything back properly when you are done, it just isnt worth the headache. After going through three transmission trying to save a buck, I doubt I will ever attempt to drop a Mazda 3 transmission again. And whats worse, is some of the bolts are nearly impossible to take off without removing the exhaust headers, I actaully got a gear wrench stuck removing one of them once the bolt was out far enough i couldnt remove the wrench until the tranny was completely out and i was able to move the bolt forward again.

This can happen for a number of reasons, especially after a replacement is installed on the transmission side. From my research online and doing this irl, ive discovered that if the torque converter is not seated properly, it can push on the flexplate and cause it to hit the starter. This can also happen if different year transmissions are used, as Ive discovered there is about 1/16 inch difference in them despite being the exact same transmission/engine and model. What I have seen for a resolution to this issue, is to either replace the starter, or pull it out and grind off the 1/16 inch from the blades so they no longer "zing" across the flexplate while it is running/starting. There is also the suggestion to shim the starter to fix the issue, but to my mind, shims would push it further from the flexplate in the wrong direction, away from where they mate. It seems like shaving off some of the distance on the starter teeth would be the best way to fix it.Additionally a number of folks have bought starters from AutoZone that were just garbage and were not disengaging properly after engaging the flexplate. I think the least likely of scenarios, although still something to be aware of, is that any of the flexplate or torque converter bolts are loose or not torqued to spec will cause very slight wobble in the rotation and make a similar grinding sound.

Please check Page: 3-172023 Mazda 3 User Manualhttps://www.autouserguide.com/mazda/mazda-3-sedan/2023-mazda-3-sedan-user-manual/

Question edited for clarity and spelling. This UK BMC Mini look-alike is only available in Japan (we are in North America). I would say No, that is NOT normal. Modern engines are relatively silent. I would say that you have a hose that has come off somewhere in the engine, either around the air filter, or one of the vacuum hoses. If it is new to you check that someone hasn't removed the air filter. https://www.google.com/search?q=2007+Mazda+Verisa ..

Clean your waste gate out might be blocked

It helps to have a year, and also the part for the torque settings.In the linkhttps://www.google.com/search?q=Mazda+323+b3+torque+settingsYou are my 65,000th Answer on Fixya!!..

I need help replacing my thermostat on my 2004 Mazda

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Thermostat replacement Mazda Tribute 2001 - 2011

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Need to replace thermostat in my 2005 mazda tribute 2.3.

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How to change MAZDA TRIBUTE Thermostat

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Mazda Tribute Thermostat Housing Pipe Water Outlet V6 ...

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what year?

Isn't your Hyundai Accent 1.3 fuel injected? https://www.google.com/search?q=base+plate+to+fit+a+32%2F36+Weber+for+1998+Accent+1.3 https://www.google.com/search?q=base+plate+to+fit+a+32%2F36+Weber+for+1998+Accent+1.3

99004.675 Mazda B2000, B2200 Adapter Plate

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32/36 Carb Kit Compatible For Mazda B2000 B2200 1986- ...

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Possibly crawl under car and dissconnect the shifter and manually move the selector on the trans out of Park Position. Normally the locking feature is in the steering column.. which you can also take apart to release this feature.

Try this method How to Reset Mazda Radio ' Alden Mazda

Can you swap door switches from left side to right side to possibly eliminate one side?

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Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. You can't Disarm the system, but there are a number of ways to try and reset it. https://www.justanswer.com/mazda/e6z2i-believe-mazda-cx-7-locked-security-open.html https://www.vehiclehistory.com/questions/how-do-i-perform-the-2007-mazda-cx-7-security-system-reset-204995 and more using the door lock and the key. https://www.google.com/search?q=2007+mazda+cx-7+security+system+reset ..

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Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Yes, you are correct, disconnecting the fuse box has broken the pairing between the key and the immobilizer system. Did you remove the main connection plugs to the fuse box? My thought is that those connectors have never been removed since the car was built and breaking a remaking the connection, you might have some connections that as not as good as they should be. Pull the connectors again and give them a good spray with electrical contact cleaner (that is NOT WD40). Then reconnect. There is various ideas on resetting the Immobilizer here. https://www.google.com/search?q=mazda+miata+immobilizer+system+reset Or a Mobile Auto Locksmith https://www.google.com/search?q=mobile+auto+locksmith+near+me Just for fun, here are the Fuse Box locations and diagrams. They have changed over the years, and as you didn't state the year, here is all of them.

Mazda MX-5 Miata (NA; 1989-1997) fuses

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Mazda MX-5 Miata (ND; 2016-2023) fuses

Fuse Box Diagrams https://fuse-box.info > mazda > mazda-mx-5-miata-nd... Fuse box diagram (location and assignment of electrical fuses) for Mazda MX-5 Miata (MX5) (ND; 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023).