Ford F-150 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 9

Are you using high quality gas? It sounds like the EGR system quit working remove the valve and check for carbon and operation if it good the ignition timing might be off also check for memory codes.

check and test module --and actuator

Check this diagrams...



2004 Ford F 150 Heritage 4.2 liter V-6 VIN "2"




4.2L Engine Firing Order: 1-4-2-5-3-6 Distributorless ignition system

Hope helps.

The problem you are experiencing is because the retainint pin will not push in unless the ignition switch is turned to the "ON" position. This cannot happen if you do not have the key.

If the key is lost or the cylinder will not turn for any other reason, then the retaining pin must be DRILLED out using a 1/8" drill bit. (see picture)

NOTE: When drilling out the retaining pin, take care not to damage the cover cast housing or the hazard flasher switch.

To do a hard reset on the vehicle disconnect both battery terminals and touch them together without touching the battery for 60 seconds. But it sounds like you may have failing coils.

P0731 Ford - Incorrect First Gear Ratio Possible causes - Low transmission fluid level - Dirty transmission fluid - Shift solenoids - Transmission mechanical problems - Transmission hydraulic control circuit p0732 Gear 2 Incorrect ratio Possible causes - Low transmission fluid level - Dirty transmission fluid - Faulty Shift Solenoids - Shift Solenoids harness is open or shorted - Shift Solenoids circuit poot electrical connection - Transmission mechanical problems - Transmission hydraulic control circuit Start by inspecting the transmission oil level and condition, and change fluid if necessary. also check OUTPUT SHAFT SPEED OSS for proper installation and function hope this helps

Passenger side foot well, find fuse box, look up and toward the engine compartment. Its a small black part with a red or white plunger on top. It can be hard to see, it requires some contorting but easy to feel for.

You have a defective NAV system, pull it out and send it in for repair or.... Just use your cell phone's Google maps app for navigation, it is far better then any car nav system.

87 to 96 F-150, F-250, F-350, and 97 F-250, F-350 tailgates are all the same. the only difference will be trim and decal placements.

There should be a bluetooth module in the dash. Impossible for me to tell if that is your issue, but would be a good place to start.

Try checking the relay/switch attached to actual pedal. if this fails you either get brake lights stuck on or no brake lights at all.

There are three plugs on each side of the block under the exhaust manifold and two in the rear of the block between the engine and transmission. If the rear freeze plug is leaking, it can be seen by antifreeze leaking out of the bottom of the transmission bell housing.

Sound like a wire loose. could be the earth cable to the engine, or the main power cable from the battery to the fuse box/ignition switch/starter.

did you press and hold in the clk button until the hour starts flashing ? did you use the up arrow or down arrow on the radio to adjust the time or the seek button the right and left arrow buttons press CLK to jump to minutes https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/10f12og3e.pdf page 42

all I can tell you is give splicing a go if it doesn't work then replace with new or used if you can find them

Pictures here https://www.google.com/search?q=1981+ford+f150+fuse+box+diagram&rlz=1C1QJDB_enCA643CA644&sxsrf=AOaemvIrXratchDVCYkOPMeWbHFErYq3Kw:1631809646505&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiWgMjS9IPzAhWOTd8KHTZfCXAQ_AUoAXoECAEQAw&biw=1920&bih=937&dpr=1 ..

Hello. It seems the 'Overdrive' button in your gear lever is defective/malfunctioning. This will cause the overdrive solenoid not to engage/disengage due to lack of 'power'. Good luck and keep me informed; if you want to.

One common problem is a vac leak or a sticking throttle plate.The computer controls idle speed by how much air is allowed into the intake. The idle control valve could be sticking even tho you have cleaned it, or have a faulty motor.

Safe/disarm the Airbag system by removing the negative battery cable for 5 minutes prior to the start of work, then remove the Airbag capsule from the steering wheel by removing the four machine screws at the rear of the steering wheel, they are down on deep wells, I believe they are 8mm heads, take a flashlight and look first, they used a number of diff screws types so confirm I am right. Once the Airbag capsule is removed remove the large nut under it that retains the steering wheel, then using a steering wheel puller (available from any auto parts store for less than $6) remove the steering wheel, you now have access to the parts that will need to be replaced or tightened if it is a tilt wheel.

The switch and the parts that allows the windows to roll up and down could of had stopped working and the electrical parts that control the windows is no longer working and needs to be fixed.