ATVs - Page 5 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support
I have a 2010 Arctic Cat 550 H1 EFI and it stalls sometimes but always restarts. The fuel pump and regulator were both replaced with no effect. You can be running along and it just dies.
https://www.google.com/search?q=2010+Arctic+Cat+550+H1+EFI+stalls+sometimes
Based on the information provided, there could be several possible reasons for your Arctic Cat 550 H1 EFI to stall. Here are a few potential causes to consider:
- Clogged Fuel Filter: A clogged fuel filter can cause a lack of fuel flow to the engine, leading to stalling. Even though the fuel pump and regulator were replaced, it's possible that the fuel filter may still be clogged or dirty. Consider replacing the fuel filter as a troubleshooting step.
- Faulty Ignition System: If the ignition system is faulty, it can cause the engine to stall. This could be due to a number of reasons, such as a failing ignition coil or spark plug. You may want to have the ignition system checked by a mechanic.
- Air Intake Issues: Problems with the air intake can also cause stalling. A clogged air filter, for example, can restrict airflow to the engine and cause stalling. Make sure to check the air filter and clean or replace it if necessary.
- Electrical Issues: Electrical problems, such as a faulty sensor or loose connection, can also cause stalling. You may want to have the electrical system checked by a mechanic.
- Fuel Injectors: The fuel injectors may not be working properly, which can cause stalling. Have a mechanic check the fuel injectors to ensure they are functioning correctly.
3/25/2023 11:46:22 PM •
ATVs
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Answered
on Mar 25, 2023
2011 arctic cat 550 efi hard to start once started will idle but spits sputters when you push throttle
Based on the information you have provided, there are a few possible causes for the issues with your 2011 Arctic Cat 550 EFI. Here are some suggestions for troubleshooting:
Check the fuel injectors: If the fuel injectors are clogged or dirty, it can cause issues with starting and idling. You may need to clean or replace the fuel injectors.
Check the fuel pressure regulator: If the fuel pressure regulator is not functioning properly, it can cause issues with fuel delivery to the engine. You may need to replace the fuel pressure regulator.
Check the air intake and filter: If the air intake or filter is dirty or clogged, it can cause issues with fuel delivery and combustion. You may need to clean or replace the air filter.
Check the throttle body: If the throttle body is dirty or clogged, it can cause issues with fuel delivery and combustion. You may need to clean the throttle body.
Check the ignition system: If the ignition system is faulty, it can cause issues with starting and idling. You may need to replace the spark plugs or coil.
Check the battery: If the battery is weak or not providing sufficient power, it can cause issues with starting and idling. You may need to replace the battery.
It's important to note that these are just suggestions based on the information you have provided..
Battery light flashing while driving
A flashing battery light while driving on your Polaris 700 EFI could indicate a problem with the charging system. Here are a few possible causes:
- Faulty alternator: The alternator is responsible for charging the battery while the engine is running. If the alternator isn't working properly, the battery won't receive a sufficient charge and the battery light may flash.
- Loose or corroded battery connections: If the battery connections are loose or corroded, the battery won't be able to receive a full charge from the alternator.
- Failed voltage regulator: The voltage regulator regulates the output of the alternator. If the voltage regulator fails, it can cause the battery light to flash.
- Failed battery: If the battery is failing, it may not be able to hold a charge even when it's being charged properly.
It's a good idea to have your Polaris 700 EFI checked by a professional mechanic to diagnose and fix the problem.
3/18/2023 5:52:59 PM •
ATVs
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Answered
on Mar 18, 2023
Why doesn't it move when gas pedal is pushed?
If your vehicle's gas pedal is pushed, but the vehicle is not moving, there could be a few potential causes, depending on the type of vehicle and transmission.
- Transmission issues: One possible cause could be a problem with the transmission. If your vehicle has an automatic transmission, it could be that the transmission is not engaging properly or is slipping, preventing the vehicle from moving. In a manual transmission vehicle, the clutch may be slipping or not engaging properly.
- Drive train problems: Another potential cause could be a problem with the drive train, such as a broken or disconnected axle, driveshaft, or differential.
- Brake issues: If the brakes are engaged or stuck, the vehicle may not move even if the gas pedal is pressed. Make sure the emergency brake is released, and that the brake pedal is not stuck.
- Engine issues: If the engine is not running properly or has a mechanical problem, it may not have enough power to move the vehicle. Check the engine for any warning lights or unusual sounds.
It's important to address any issues with your vehicle promptly and to seek the help of a qualified mechanic to diagnose and repair the problem. A mechanic will be able to perform a thorough inspection and identify the root cause of the issue.
I have a 2006 Polaris sportsman 800 twin with efi diagnostics and when I drive the quad it’s sounds fine but when it starts to turn on the cooling system a loud rattle turns on and it gets louder when I turn the wheels, the noise is coming from the front
The loud rattle that you hear when the cooling system turns on and when you turn the wheels may be caused by a few different issues. Here are a few possibilities:
- Loose or damaged components: It's possible that a component in the front of your Polaris Sportsman, such as a fan blade, is loose or damaged and is causing the noise when the cooling system turns on. Check all components in the front of the vehicle to make sure they are secure and not damaged.
- Loose wheel or steering components: The noise may also be caused by loose wheel or steering components, such as a wheel bearing, tie rod end, or ball joint. These components can become loose over time and can cause a rattle or clunking noise when driving or turning. Check these components for wear or damage and tighten or replace them as necessary.
- Engine or transmission issue: It's also possible that the noise is coming from the engine or transmission and is being amplified by the cooling system turning on. Have a mechanic inspect the engine and transmission to determine if there are any issues that need to be addressed.
It's important to address any unusual noises in your vehicle promptly to prevent further damage and ensure safe operation. If you are unsure of how to diagnose or repair the issue, it's best to seek the help of a qualified mechanic.
2/26/2023 3:55:20 AM •
ATVs
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Answered
on Feb 26, 2023
How to change coolant in a 2008 Kawasaki diesel 3010
1. Park your mule on a level surface and remove the drain plug from the bottom of the radiator using a socket wrench. Drain the coolant into a pan or onto the ground.
2. Remove the radiator cap and top off the radiator with fresh coolant to the level indicated on the side of the tank.
3. Install a new coolant filter on the coolant lines.
4. Add the appropriate amount of coolant to the radiator and make sure that the level is where it should be.
5. Reinstall the radiator cap and drain plug, then start the engine and let it run for several minutes to allow the new coolant to flow through the hoses.
6. Let the engine cool, then check the coolant level again. Add additional coolant if necessary.
7. Replace the coolant filter once a year to ensure that your engine stays in top condition.
2/22/2023 7:16:34 PM •
ATVs
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Answered
on Feb 22, 2023
A KAWASAKI 2012 teryx 750 and while riding i loose all power the dash goes black and it dies but it starts back up in a few minutes and might run for along time or for a few minutes
not a car it is ATV offroad
same on all things like this that is a DC battery feed power loss
pure electrical failures.
fuses bad or loose?
battery is bad as it is intermittent and they do that.
so key on all power is lost, so a voltmeter in hand finds them all
if still dead testing
bad battery lugs and cable ends. loose or rusty.
the dash dead smacks of full power loss !
\and will be seen too in the fuse box, 12vdc lost there or even everywhere there dead. and bingo that. for sure.
learn to do the test fast only when dead dash.
if battery box fuses all then dead , so is the battery now.
batteries have many failure mode.
dead
or intermittent (hot ..,/cold or vibration )
or open cell 1 of 6 (2 volts per cell)
see 10volts there a cell is dead.!!!
12.6vdc is charged battery state, rested.
or jumper cable jump start the battery in ATV from car.
if dash wakes up bingo your ATV battery is bad.
buy the service manual for Kawasaki and see all that clearly
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